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The days are getting shorter, the weather is getting colder, and I want to make sure that my car is ready for winter driving. In this blog, I’ll show you how I prepare my car for winter, and hopefully you can use some of these tips on your own car as well.
Where I live, winter means wet/ snowy weather, and more night time driving due to shorter days. Visibility during this season is key. I like to inspect my wiper blades and replace them if needed. I also like to coat the windshield and glass with a special sealant that will repel water and prevent the wiper blades from squeaking.
Wiper Blades
Hold the wiper stalk up for 5 seconds to put the wipers in Service Mode.
If you’ve ever tried changing the wiper blades on your F30, you might have noticed they hit the underside of the hood, making them difficult to access. It turns out there’s a little trick to get them to stand upright in their service position. Without pressing the brake pedal or starting the car, press the Start /Stop Botton to put the car into accessory mode, then press it again to turn it off. Now hold the wiper stalk up for 5 seconds and the wipers will stand up 90 degrees. When you’re done, press the stalk down and they will return to their neutral position.
I like the Genuine BMW blades myself which you can buy here. If you’d rather go with a different brand, the F30 3 Series uses a 23” blade for the driver’s side and 20” for the passenger side.
Pinch the tabs on the blade, then pull out and up.
Once in their service mode, simply press in on the tabs and lift out and up. Then snap your new blade in place, the longer blade goes on the driver’s side. Pro tip: change them one at a time. If the wiper arm snaps back on accident without the blade, it will break the glass.
Glass Sealant
Next, I like to apply Griot’s Garage Glass Sealant. It’s got hydrophobic properties like it’s spray-on competitors, but lasts much longer. For me, one treatment easily gets me through winter. There is some prep involved and it’s a bit more time consuming to install, but the results are well worth it.
Prep the glass with clay bar to remove any contaminants. I sprayed plain water on the glass to help lubricate the clay. Then clean the glass with isopropyl alcohol to remove any wax or remnants of previous glass treatments.
Apply Griot’s Glass Sealant in an overlapping cross-hatch pattern.
Apply a small amount of product to an applicator pad and replenish as needed. A little bit goes a long way. Apply the sealant to the glass in an overlapping cross-hatch pattern. Then, before buffing it off, apply a second coat over the first one using the same technique. Don’t forget the sunroof if you have one!
After the second coat, you can buff it off with a clean microfiber. It takes a bit of effort to buff it off completely, but you will thank yourself the first time you drive in the rain or snow.
Honorable mention: If that sounds like too much work, Rain-X is an excellent alternative. It doesn’t last as long, but it’s cheaper and easier to apply. I still use Rain-X in a pinch, or if I’m feeling too lazy to apply Griot’s.
Floor Mats
My F30 came with BMW’s rubber floor mats which I loved because the red trim perfectly matched my car’s Coral Red interior. The problem is, they don’t have any side protection, and if you’ve ever got in your car after walking in deep snow, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. Luckily, I was able to score a set of Weather Tech mats from Kies Motorsports which are vehicle specific and perfectly conform to the driver and passenger footwells.
To install them, use a flathead to unscrew the stock Velco style baseplates, and replace them with the hook style ones included with the Weather Tech mats. Orient them so the hooks are pointing toward the seats. Then hook your new mats in place.
Cabin Air Filter
Since we’ll be using the heat for the next few months, it’s not a bad idea to replace the cabin air filter, both to maximize airflow and to get rid of that musty, dusty filter that’s been filtering dank, humid air all summer. The F30 BMW 3 Series uses a Mann CUK 25 001 cabin air filter.
The cabin air filter in this car is in the passenger footwell below the glovebox. Remove two 10mm nuts, then pull the footwell cover down and unplug the 12V outlet and the footwell light. By the way, did you know you had an outlet down here? Set the cover aside and you’ll have access to the filter compartment.
Remove two T20 screws from the filter cover, then pull the filter down.
These cabin air filters are directional. According to the manufacturers instructions, the arrows on the filter should be pointing toward the front of the car when the filter is installed. Pro-tip: bend the filter to the curved shape first rather than just trying to stuff it in as-is.
Clean Sunroof Drains
If your car has a sunroof, it’s crucial to clean the drains periodically. When you open your sunroof, there are drains in the front corners that run down the A-pillars and out of a hole in the door jam. Over time, pollen, dirt, and seeds can clog these drains and cause serious water damage in your interior.
I like to blow them out with a can of compressed air like you’d use to clean your computer. Be sure the car doors are open so the drains at the base are clear, and air and debris can come out freely.
Rust Prevention
If you live in an area that uses road salt, I HIGHLY recommend doing an underbody coating. I personally use Fluid Film. If you’re able to jack up your car, you can install it yourself in your garage. One can of Fluid Film was all I needed. Fluid Film is made of lanolin, a waxy substance derived from wool bearing animals. Some people prefer this as it isn’t as harsh on rubber components as petroleum based alternatives. Be warned though, this stuff smells like a sheep’s asshole while you’re applying it.
Even though the F30’s underbelly is mostly protected by plastic paneling, there is still some exposed metal that needs protection.
What to apply Fluid Film to: Front and rear subframes, shocks and suspension components, steel bracing, axles, differential, exposed hardware, door and trunk drains.
What NOT to apply Fluid Film to: Exhaust parts (this stuff is flammable if exposed to extreme temperatures. After the application, I cleaned any overspray off my exhaust just to be safe). Brake rotors for obvious reasons.
Coating suspension and door drains.
Get Your Battery Tested
Finally, get your battery tested. Cold weather is hard on batteries, and even if your 5 year old battery was working fine last summer, it may hesitate once cold temperatures set in. Luckily, most auto part stores will test your battery for free, just be warned that they’ll want to sell you a new one, so shop around for a good price before having it tested.
If your battery is due for replacement, I’ve got an in-depth DIY showing both the install and the coding process, which you’ll need to do if your BMW is ~2005 or newer. Check out my battery DIY video here. Be proactive and don’t wait until a flat battery leaves you stranded.
Winter Prep Supply Checklist
(affiliate links)
Final Thoughts
Please drive safe this winter! Even with all wheel drive and snow tires, you shouldn’t let your guard down. When it’s snowing, slow down. Increase your following distance. Be aware of other drivers who aren’t as equipped or as cautious as you. And hopefully with the tips from this blog, your drive will be a little easier this winter!
Watch the Winter Prep Video