F30 M Sport Rear Bumper Conversion

In the BMW world, “M Sport” is a package sought out by enthusiasts that adds aggressive bumpers and side skirts, larger brakes, and driver focused suspension. Because F30’s with the M Sport package are so desirable, they tend to be harder to find and always demand a higher price. Luckily, for those of use who have bought a non-M Sport F30, changing the bumpers isn’t as difficult as you might think. In this guide, I’ll show you how to convert your F30 BMW’s rear bumper to an M Sport bumper. 

The M Sport bumpers from Kies Motorsports come unpainted. The paint shop will ask for your VIN number so they can order the exact paint color for your car. You’ll also give them your fuel door so they can be sure the color is a perfect match. Expect to pay around $400 to have the rear bumper professionally prepped and painted. I had the front bumper, rear bumper and side skirts painted all at once for $1,000. A quality professional paint job is not cheap, but this is not an area to cut corners (speaking from experience).

Tools required: Torx bit sockets, 8mm socket, electric ratchet
Install time: 2 hours

Step 1
Remove the T20 and 8mm screws in the wheel well.

Step 2
Remove the 8mm screws from the underside of the bumper

Step 3
Remove the plastic drip covers from the tail lights and remove the 10mm nuts.

Step 4
Pull straight back on the tail light and unplug the harness.

Step 5
Remove the 10mm screws from the top of the bumper.

Step 6
Put a piece of masking tape on the body of the car to protect the paint before removing the old bumper.

Step 7
Carefully remove the rear bumper. If you car has parking sensors like mine, each sensor has it’s own wiring harness. You’ll need to unplug each one while removing the bumper.

Step 8
Plug the parking sensor harnesses into the new M Sport bumper and install it on the car.

Step 9
Reinstall the tail lights and bumper hardware to secure it in place.

Watch the step-by-step installation guide here:

This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

A Simple Car Wash Guide

Over the years, I’ve made adjustments to my car wash routine, both in the process and the products I use. In this simple guide, I’ll show you how I wash my own car. I will include affiliate links throughout the article for products I think you’ll love.

Supplies I Use

Pressure washer buy here (latest model)
Foam cannon buy here
Soap buy here
Tire & rubber cleaner buy here
Tire brush buy here
Wheel brush buy here
Grit guards buy here
Detail spray buy here
Leaf blower buy here
Wash pad buy here
Microfiber rags buy here
(affiliate links*)

I start by setting up my supplies. I set up a soap bucket, a rinse bucket, and a separate bucket for the wheels. I drop a pair of grit guards into the soap and rinse buckets. These help keep the dirt and sediment at the bottom of the bucket as I rinse my wash pad.

Next, I set up my pressure washer. Even a basic one like mine while completely elevate your car wash game. I connect the hose and turn on the water. Before turning on the pressure washer, I hold down the trigger to bleed air from the system. If you don’t do that, it will sputter for the first few minutes which is super annoying.

I’ll also set up my foam cannon. I have used Adam’s purple foam cannon soap in the past, but I find that their blue car wash soap works just as well and it’s a little cheaper. I mix a 10:1 ratio of water to soap.

I start with the wheels and tires which are the dirtiest part of the car. I hit them with the pressure washer to blow off any loose dirt and brake dust.

I spray the tires with tire and rubber cleaner, then scrub them with a tire brush. Tires have a preservative that works it’s way to the surface as you drive, leaving a dull brown residue on the surface of the tire. A tire and rubber cleaner is the best way to restore the deep black color.

I hit the wheel with some foam to ensure every surface is covered. I then hand wash the spokes with a microfiber rag. I have this little wheel brush which is perfect for cleaning inside the barrels. I do have some wheel-specific cleaners, but for my weekly car wash, soap and water work just fine. I’ll save the harsh chemicals for when the situation absolutely requires it.

I rinse the wheels thoroughly so that soap doesn’t dry on them while I wash the rest of the car.

While the body of the car is dry, I cover it with a generous coating of foam. Then I’ll wait about 5 minutes for gravity to pull the foam and dirt down. Note that I’m working in the shade and wearing clothing with no exposed zippers or buttons.

After allowing the foam to do its thing, I rinse the entire car from top to button. This pre-wash and rinse will help reduce swirls and scratches by removing a lot of heavy contaminants prior to making contact with the wash pad.

I wash the car in sections from top to bottom. I start with the roof and windows, then the hood and trunk, the doors and quarter panels, and finally the bumpers and side skirts.

To avoid swirls, wipe in straight lines. You don’t need to scrub the car like you’re doing dishes, simply guide the wash pad along using without putting pressure on it.

Lubrication is the name of the game here. I spray a generous coating of foam before wiping it with the wash pad.

In case you’re unfamiliar with the Two Bucket Method, you have one bucket of soapy water and one bucket of plain rinse water. After washing a section of the car, rinse the pad in the rinse bucket and then soap it up again. If the car is especially dirty, I might do this several times per section.

The side skirts and bumpers tend to be the dirtiest parts of the car so I save them for last.

After the entire car has been washer, I’ll do a final rinse.

I recently started using my leaf blower to dry the car and it works surprisingly well. I’d say it removes 90% of standing water and makes towel drying a breeze.

For the little bit of water that’s left, I dry it with a microfiber towel, using ceramic detailer as a drying aid. This not only adds lubrication to the towel, but also adds some protection and water repelling properties to the paint.

*This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

Watch my step by step car wash guide here:

BMW F30 340i Long-Term Owner Review

The F30 340i has been an extremely popular choice for enthusiasts, and for good reason. They offer a reliable and highly capable engine in a practical everyday car. They’ve also reached that sweet spot in the market where they are old enough for ordinary people like myself to afford, while being new enough that you can easily find pristine, low mileage examples. 

If you follow my channel, you know that this isn’t just any 340i, this is my personal car that I’ve had for over two years. Today, I’ll explain what it’s been like to live with this car, I’ll discuss ownership costs, maintenance, as well as some modifications I’d recommend. 

WHAT IS IT?

The F30 was the sixth generation BMW 3 series and the 340i was the top model offered in the final years of production. Of all the engines that were offered for the F30, the B58 found in the 340i is the one to get. The B58 is a 3 liter turbocharged inline 6. In this application it produced 320 horsepower and 330 foot pounds of torque out of the box, but will easily make more with a few simple mods. More on that later in the blog.

WHAT I LOVE

My subjective opinion is that the F30 is the most aggressive looking 3 series. It’s hard to believe that this design is 10 years old. The 340i is just as practical as it is a capable performance car. You can tear up some backroads, or you pack your luggage and drive it across the country getting 30+ MPG. Or, you can go to Lowes and load it up with home improvement supplies. It’s a car that can do it all with few compromises. With a HUGE aftermarket for parts and a massive online community, it’s easy to see why these cars are in such high demand.

WHAT I HATE

The numb steering feel is a step backwards from the previous generation 3 Series.

The driving experience, at least in stock form feels soft, especially having owned an E90 before this. The F30 was the first 3 Series to have electric steering which feels numb and disconnected and took some time to get used to. BMW used to pride themselves on being the Ultimate Driving Machine, but on the road, the F30 lacks some of the character of BMW’s that came before it.

Even though the 340i was the top F30 model, you’ll still find some examples that are sparsely optioned. This car for example was sort of a stripper model. Luckily these cars are modular and many options can be retrofitted easily. Just keep in mind that buying a 340i doesn’t guarantee that you’re getting a well optioned car, despite the price tag.

Auto vs Manual, RWD vs AWD

The 340i was available in rear wheel drive and all wheel drive, and with either a 6 speed manual or 8 speed automatic transmission. For my car, I went with a rear wheel drive automatic and I don’t regret it. There was a time when manual transmissions were the default option for enthusiasts. But recently automatics have gotten really, REALLY good. In the case of this 8 speed auto, it’s slightly quicker while achieving better MPG than its 6 speed counterpart. 

Honestly though, you can’t go wrong either way, and considering the small performance difference between the two, it really comes down to personal preference. My only suggestion is if you’re a die hard manual fan, at least give this 8 speed a try, I think you’ll be impressed. 

Choosing between rear wheel drive and all wheel drive, or X-Drive as BMW calls it, is a question of how often you’ll drive in deep snow. Even though I live in a place that gets heavy snowfall, I live near main roads that get plowed quickly where I don’t need all wheel drive to get where I’m going. To put it simply, rear wheel drive is more fun and less maintenance. 

COST OF OWNERSHIP

If you’re considering buying a 340i, here are a few ownership costs to factor in.

• Full coverage insurance: $167/mo

• Michigan Registration: $231/yr

• Fuel: approx. $5/gal for premium. I average 27 mpg with mostly highway driving. I’ve observed 19 mpg for spirited driving and 34+ mpg on road trips

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

I made a list of some of the most common maintenance items for this car. These prices are based on using OE parts and assuming you will do the work yourself.

• Oil change: $80 (personally I change my oil twice per year).

• Cabin air filter: $21

• Engine air filter: $27

• Spark plugs: $90 (set of 6)

• Brake pads & wear sensors: $250 (front & rear)

• Genuine BMW battery: $270

Regular maintenance on this car is not difficult, and a novice DIY-er should be able to do most of the things I just mentioned with a basic tool set. Being an inline six, there is plenty of room under the hood to work. 

The timing chain on this car is located at the rear of the engine, and while B58’s are not known to have timing chain issues, servicing it will be difficult if the time ever comes. That’s why it’s crucial to keep up with regular oil changes. 

MODIFICATIONS

F30’s have a lot of support for mods, both aftermarket and Genuine BMW, and some parts are even interchangeable with the F80 M3. Being that the engine is shared with the Toyota Supra, there is a huge selection of performance upgrades available. Huge shoutout to Kiesmotorsports.com for sponsoring this entire build. 

My complete list of mods will be down below in this post, but here are the top three I’d recommend:

Suspension - I’m running Bilstein B16 coilovers which made the most dramatic improvement to this car out of all of the modifications I’ve done. The stock suspension on the F30, especially non-M sport models is on the soft side and changing them to aftermarket coilovers made a massive improvement to the car’s handling. Even a simple spring and shock upgrade like Bilstein’s B14 kit will be a huge improvement over stock.

Tune - One of the first things we did when I bought this car was a simple Bootmod3 stage 1 tune. Just with the tune alone we added 45 horsepower and 55 foot pounds of torque, increasing the power and torque to 365hp and 385 lb-ft respectively. It’s cool to be able to get to that power level without even opening the hood and while retaining stock reliability.

Like I said, this was one of the first modifications I did two years ago and I haven’t had any issues. The car has more than enough power for me, and I haven’t felt the need to get a bigger turbo or other horsepower mods that could potentially hurt reliability. One benefit of keeping the stock turbo is it spools quickly with very little lag, making it fun to drive around town.

M Performance Interior - BMW actually offers some pretty cool interior upgrades for this car like dry carbon fiber and alcantara trim pieces. They completely transform the look and feel of the interior, and while they’re kind of pricey, you get what you pay for. Everything is super high quality and being Genuine BMW parts, everything fits like stock.

COMMON PROBLEMS

It’s common for B58’s to lose coolant over time despite not having visible leaks.

I’m happy to report that in 2 years and around 20,000 miles of ownership, this car has not had any major problems. In fact, with 56,000 miles on the car currently, I haven’t got so much as a check engine light. Knock on plastic. Here are a few common B58 issues.

• Unexplained coolant loss
  Many B58 owners have noticed their main expansion tank slowly losing coolant over time despite not having any obvious leaks. First, check the cap on the expansion tank. if you see dried coolant on the threads, it’s possible that coolant is evaporating from an ill fitting cap.

  You can buy a replacement cap for around $15. If you replace the cap but are still loosing coolant, you’ll want to have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks. In any case, all 340i owners should check their coolant levels periodically.
  

• Some higher mileage B58 owners have reported leaking water pumps, leaking oil filter housings, leaks from the water to air intercooler and VANOS issues. Typical BMW stuff.
  

• While the B58 has a reputation for being a reliable engine over all with no widespread catastrophic issues, I suspect that the extensive use of plastic parts will be problematic as these cars age. Especially if previous generation BMW’s are any indicator of that.
  

• Not specific to the B58, but F30’s have a common issue where the retaining clips that hold the parking brake cables to the bottom of the car will break off allowing the cables to rub on the driveshaft and make a horrible noise. I have a video on how to replace it. It’s an $8 part but is fairly labor-intensive to replace. If you are physically able to, you’ll save a lot of money if you can DIY this one.

The used car market has been all over the place, but lately I’ve been seeing 340i’s for sale from $25-30,000 in my area. If you can find one under $30k, it’s a solid car for the price, especially considering that they cost upwards of $55,000 when they were brand new just a few years ago. You’re getting the performance and mod support of the new supra, with the everyday practicality and comfort of a 3 series. 

Complete Mod List:
Wheels:
Apex ARC-8R w/ brushed clear finish
Front: 18x8.5 ET35 buy here
Rear: 18x9.5 ET45 buy here

Tires:
Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4
Front: 245/40/R18
Rear: 275/35/R18

Suspension:
Bilstein B16 coilovers
Wiechers Sport front strut brace buy here

Brakes:
F80 M3 calipers buy here
Stoptech slotted rotors buy here
EBC Red Stuff pads buy here
Goodridge steel braided brake lines buy here

Engine:
Bootmod3 Stage 1 tune buy here
MST intake buy here
AWE Tuning exhaust buy here

Interior:
M Performance Race Display steering wheel buy here
M Performance dry carbon trim kit buy here
M Performance dry carbon gear selector and trim buy here
M Performance dry carbon e-brake buy here
Kies dry carbon paddle shifters buy here
P3 vent gauge buy here
Apple CarPlay MMI buy here

Exterior:
Carbon fiber side skirt extensions buy here
Carbon fiber rear diffuser buy here
Carbon fiber front lip buy here

How to Replace Your BMW F30 Spark Plugs | 340i, 440i or any B58

PARTS
NGK Spark Plug: 94201 (OE# :12120040551)

TOOLS REQUIRED
-Spark plug socket buy here
-Torque wrench buy here
-E TORX sockets buy here
-Spark plug gap gauge buy here
-10mm socket buy here

TIME
1.5 hours

Spark plugs are a part of your car’s regular maintenance, and changing them on time will ensure smooth engine operation and good fuel economy. On the B58, it’s recommended to change the spark plugs every 50,000 miles for cars that are stock, or 20,000-30,000 for cars that are tuned or modified.

Fortunately, changing the spark plugs on your B58 powered BMW is not difficult or expensive. In fact, you’ll spend more time getting to them than actually changing them.

While the ignition coils don’t have a set maintenance interval, you may want to change them as preventative maintenance if your car has high mileage. My personal recommendation is to change the coils at 70k miles based on my experience with my E90. Since you have to take the ignition coils out to get to the plugs anyway, it makes sense to change them all at once.

INSTALLATION

Step 1
Loosen the 10mm nut to remove the negative battery cable from the terminal.

Step 2
Lift straight up on the acoustic engine cover to remove it.

Step 3
Remove these triangular covers on both sides.

Step 4
Remove four E18 bolts to remove this chassis brace. You may need some extra leverage.

Step 5
Carefully pull the wire out of this rubber insulation and remove the insulation from the car.

Step 6
Remove the seven 10mm screws to remove this plastic cover.

Step 7
Carefully remove this foam sound deadening so it doesn’t rip on it’s way out.

Step 8
With everything out of the way, you now have unobscured access to all six spark plugs.

NGK 94201

For the spark plugs I went with the NGK 94201 which is an OE plug for the 340i. BMW has also used Champion plugs in the B58. My original plugs happened to be NGK but don’t be surprised if you see a different brand when you pull you original plugs.

The NGK 94201 is made specifically for the B58 and is pre-gapped to .030. You can use a gauge to double check that the gap is correct on all six spark plugs, although, they are packaged nicely with a cardboard tube that protects electrode.

There is a lot of discussion online whether or not you should change the gap so something like .022. For cars that are stock or stock with a basic stage 1 tune, the stock gap is fine and you can use the 94201 plugs straight out of the box. If you are running other mods like a big turbo or ethanol, check with your tuner and see what gap they recommend for your car.

Step 9
Unlock the ignition coil harness by lifting up on the center tab while simultaneously pulling out on the grey tab.

Step 10
Loosen the E8 bolt on top of the coil. Note that it’s part of the ignition coil and won’t come all the way out.

Step 11
Remove the spark plug. The B58 plugs use a thin wall, 14mm, 12 point socket. This Kies Socket is magnetic which makes changing the plugs a breeze.

Step 12
Carefully hand thread the new plugs to avoid cross-threading. DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION ON THE THREADS.

Step 13
Torque the new spark plugs to 23NM.

Step 15
Re-install the ignition coil and plug in the harness. The tightening spec on the E8 bolt is 8NM.

Follow these steps for all six spark plugs. Before re-assembling everything, open the garage and start the car to ensure there are no misfires.

INSTALLATION VIDEO

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I will earn a commission.