Is Your Car Ready for Winter?

Affiliate disclosure: This blog contains affiliate links. If you click my custom link to buy a product, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

The days are getting shorter, the weather is getting colder, and I want to make sure that my car is ready for winter driving. In this blog, I’ll show you how I prepare my car for winter, and hopefully you can use some of these tips on your own car as well.

Where I live, winter means wet/ snowy weather, and more night time driving due to shorter days. Visibility during this season is key. I like to inspect my wiper blades and replace them if needed. I also like to coat the windshield and glass with a special sealant that will repel water and prevent the wiper blades from squeaking.

Wiper Blades

Hold the wiper stalk up for 5 seconds to put the wipers in Service Mode.

If you’ve ever tried changing the wiper blades on your F30, you might have noticed they hit the underside of the hood, making them difficult to access. It turns out there’s a little trick to get them to stand upright in their service position. Without pressing the brake pedal or starting the car, press the Start /Stop Botton to put the car into accessory mode, then press it again to turn it off. Now hold the wiper stalk up for 5 seconds and the wipers will stand up 90 degrees. When you’re done, press the stalk down and they will return to their neutral position.

I like the Genuine BMW blades myself which you can buy here. If you’d rather go with a different brand, the F30 3 Series uses a 23” blade for the driver’s side and 20” for the passenger side.

Pinch the tabs on the blade, then pull out and up.

Once in their service mode, simply press in on the tabs and lift out and up. Then snap your new blade in place, the longer blade goes on the driver’s side. Pro tip: change them one at a time. If the wiper arm snaps back on accident without the blade, it will break the glass.

Glass Sealant

Next, I like to apply Griot’s Garage Glass Sealant. It’s got hydrophobic properties like it’s spray-on competitors, but lasts much longer. For me, one treatment easily gets me through winter. There is some prep involved and it’s a bit more time consuming to install, but the results are well worth it.

Prep the glass with clay bar to remove any contaminants. I sprayed plain water on the glass to help lubricate the clay. Then clean the glass with isopropyl alcohol to remove any wax or remnants of previous glass treatments.

Apply Griot’s Glass Sealant in an overlapping cross-hatch pattern.

Apply a small amount of product to an applicator pad and replenish as needed. A little bit goes a long way. Apply the sealant to the glass in an overlapping cross-hatch pattern. Then, before buffing it off, apply a second coat over the first one using the same technique. Don’t forget the sunroof if you have one!

After the second coat, you can buff it off with a clean microfiber. It takes a bit of effort to buff it off completely, but you will thank yourself the first time you drive in the rain or snow.

Honorable mention: If that sounds like too much work, Rain-X is an excellent alternative. It doesn’t last as long, but it’s cheaper and easier to apply. I still use Rain-X in a pinch, or if I’m feeling too lazy to apply Griot’s.

Floor Mats

My F30 came with BMW’s rubber floor mats which I loved because the red trim perfectly matched my car’s Coral Red interior. The problem is, they don’t have any side protection, and if you’ve ever got in your car after walking in deep snow, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. Luckily, I was able to score a set of Weather Tech mats from Kies Motorsports which are vehicle specific and perfectly conform to the driver and passenger footwells.

To install them, use a flathead to unscrew the stock Velco style baseplates, and replace them with the hook style ones included with the Weather Tech mats. Orient them so the hooks are pointing toward the seats. Then hook your new mats in place.

Cabin Air Filter

Since we’ll be using the heat for the next few months, it’s not a bad idea to replace the cabin air filter, both to maximize airflow and to get rid of that musty, dusty filter that’s been filtering dank, humid air all summer. The F30 BMW 3 Series uses a Mann CUK 25 001 cabin air filter.

The cabin air filter in this car is in the passenger footwell below the glovebox. Remove two 10mm nuts, then pull the footwell cover down and unplug the 12V outlet and the footwell light. By the way, did you know you had an outlet down here? Set the cover aside and you’ll have access to the filter compartment.

Remove two T20 screws from the filter cover, then pull the filter down.

These cabin air filters are directional. According to the manufacturers instructions, the arrows on the filter should be pointing toward the front of the car when the filter is installed. Pro-tip: bend the filter to the curved shape first rather than just trying to stuff it in as-is.

Clean Sunroof Drains

If your car has a sunroof, it’s crucial to clean the drains periodically. When you open your sunroof, there are drains in the front corners that run down the A-pillars and out of a hole in the door jam. Over time, pollen, dirt, and seeds can clog these drains and cause serious water damage in your interior.

I like to blow them out with a can of compressed air like you’d use to clean your computer. Be sure the car doors are open so the drains at the base are clear, and air and debris can come out freely.

Rust Prevention

If you live in an area that uses road salt, I HIGHLY recommend doing an underbody coating. I personally use Fluid Film. If you’re able to jack up your car, you can install it yourself in your garage. One can of Fluid Film was all I needed. Fluid Film is made of lanolin, a waxy substance derived from wool bearing animals. Some people prefer this as it isn’t as harsh on rubber components as petroleum based alternatives. Be warned though, this stuff smells like a sheep’s asshole while you’re applying it.

Even though the F30’s underbelly is mostly protected by plastic paneling, there is still some exposed metal that needs protection.

What to apply Fluid Film to: Front and rear subframes, shocks and suspension components, steel bracing, axles, differential, exposed hardware, door and trunk drains.

What NOT to apply Fluid Film to: Exhaust parts (this stuff is flammable if exposed to extreme temperatures. After the application, I cleaned any overspray off my exhaust just to be safe). Brake rotors for obvious reasons.

Coating suspension and door drains. 

Get Your Battery Tested

Finally, get your battery tested. Cold weather is hard on batteries, and even if your 5 year old battery was working fine last summer, it may hesitate once cold temperatures set in. Luckily, most auto part stores will test your battery for free, just be warned that they’ll want to sell you a new one, so shop around for a good price before having it tested.

If your battery is due for replacement, I’ve got an in-depth DIY showing both the install and the coding process, which you’ll need to do if your BMW is ~2005 or newer. Check out my battery DIY video here. Be proactive and don’t wait until a flat battery leaves you stranded.

Winter Prep Supply Checklist

• Wiper blades

• Glass sealant

• Clay bar

• Floor mats

• Cabin air filter

• Compressed air

• Underbody coating

(affiliate links)

Final Thoughts

Please drive safe this winter! Even with all wheel drive and snow tires, you shouldn’t let your guard down. When it’s snowing, slow down. Increase your following distance. Be aware of other drivers who aren’t as equipped or as cautious as you. And hopefully with the tips from this blog, your drive will be a little easier this winter!

Watch the Winter Prep Video

Financing a Car? READ THIS FIRST!

What would your life be like with no car payments? Many of us have been in car debt for so long that we can’t remember what that feels like. I recently paid off my BMW more than a year early. The feeling of relief that I felt making the final payment is something I want to share today, because this topic isn’t talked about enough in the car community.

America’s Car Debt Crises

I believe that we have a car debt crises in America. Let me hit you with a few statistics. The average monthly car payment at the time of this writing is $726 for a new car and $533 for used. The average interest rates on those loans across all credit scores is 7.18% for new cars and 11.93% for used. The total that we owe on our cars is in excess of 1.6 trillion dollars. Meanwhile, roughly 28% of Americans have less than $1,000 in savings. On top of all of that, 4.4% of car loans are currently delinquent by 90 days, putting those cars into repossession territory.

I noticed a trend on TikTok where people announce their car payment like it’s a flex or competition to see who’s paying the most. While others talk about their car expenses with a sense of desperation in their voices. People call into financial shows with ridiculous car expenses and you realize, this isn’t just a few isolated cases. This is a massive problem. Watching videos like these lit a fire under me to get my car paid off ASAP.

I think as car enthusiasts, we are even more vulnerable to going into deeply into debt for our cars. For us, a car is so much more than an appliance that gets us from here to there. It’s our hobby, our source of entertainment and a gateway into a community of likeminded people.

“Life is short”

Something we hear a lot in the car community is, “Life is short, so buy whatever the hell you want.” But I think this is a short-sighted take. Life is short, and you work too hard to give so much of your paycheck right back to the bank for car payments. When you look at those statistics that we just talked about, people having astronomical payments and little to no savings, ask yourself, are these people really living their best lives because they financed the car they really wanted? I think a lot of people are scared right now. They’ve gotten in over their heads and are one layoff or one emergency away from losing it all.

There are a lot of factors at play here. Cars are more expensive than ever, supply chain issues caused scarcity that drove up the price of used cars, and banks are allowing people to borrow irrisponsible amounts of money to pay for them. With an average new car price of $48,000, it seems almost unfathomable to save up and pay cash for a car like our parents did. I think we do have a choice though to buy something reasonable, whether that means saving for a while, or taking a small, low interest loan and paying it off quickly.

The question you should ask yourself is, “What is this costing me?” And I don’t just mean the monthly payment or the interest. What is it costing your mental health, your sleep and your ability to save and invest? I have to tell you, my sleep has improved since becoming debt free. When you don’t have debt, you have options. For you, maybe it’s the option make that career change. Maybe you can finally take some time off for yourself. Heck, maybe you’re a true car enthusiast and you can buy those wheels that have been in your shopping cart for years.

The Case for Car Loans

It’s not all bad, is it? I want to explain the situation with my BMW 340i. Prior to buying the car, my wife and I already had a six month emergency fund in addition to a large downpayment that we saved for the car. Because the payment was a small percentage of our income, we continued our savings and retirement investing after purchasing the car. Even though having a payment wasn’t ideal, it also wasn’t killing us.

We have friends who will spend $400 a week on fine dining and cocktail bars, and what’s the return on investment on that? For my wife and I, as car enthusiasts, we always rationalized the car payments as an entertainment expense. It was a small portion of our income that we could afford to give up each month, and now that they’re both paid off, we have a couple of fun, reliable and relatively low milage vehicles as a result.

I’m not advocating that you go get a car loan, but I do think that there’s an amount that people can borrow that’s not financially ruinous. It’s not always the car loan itself that’s a problem, but rather the extremes we take it to - like the people on TikTok with car payments that look like mortgages and interest rates that look like credit card interest. In case anyone’s curious, my BMW 340i payment was $414/ month at 4.64% interest.

Depreciation

"The total value of your vehicles should not exceed half of your annual income."

When I paid off my car I posted a screenshot on my instagram story and out of thousands of people who saw the post, and numerous congratulations, the only person who had something negative to say was a friend of mine who works in… take a guess.. finance. He said sarcastically, “Good job paying off a depreciating asset.” This is a bad take in my opinion. The car is depreciating whether you pay it off or not. If anything, depreciation is even more reason to pay your car off early. A lot of people are under water on their car loans right now, in other words, they owe more money on the car than it’s worth.

This can happen if you overpay for the car to begin with, especially brand new cars which have a steeper depreciation curve. Or having such a long loan term that the car depreciates at a faster rate than you’re paying it off. This can become a big headache if you need to get out of the car quickly. Maybe you lost your job and don’t have enough saved to make the payments. Maybe the car is starting to have expensive issues that you’re sick of fixing. If you owe more than it’s worth, you’ll have to somehow come up with that difference before you can sell it. If your car is paid off and you want to get rid of it for any reason, you simply sell the car.

Another issue that people run into is getting in an accident when the car is underwater. Since insurance pays out based on the current value of the vehicle, you may end up with a payout that doesn’t quite cover what you owe and you’ll need to come up with the difference. You can opt for GAP insurance, which is a policy that would cover that difference in the event that the car is totaled before you pay it off. Better yet, pay down the loan aggressively so the car doesn’t end up underwater in the first place.

Because cars go down in value, it is important to be mindful of how much of your net worth is in vehicles. There’s a consensus in the personal finance community that the total value of your vehicles should not exceed half of your annual income. That way as your cars go down in value, they’re not taking your entire net worth with it. By the way, the “50% of income” rule of thumb is the max that you could safely have in vehicles. The less that net worth is tied up in things with motors, the better.

Early Payoff

So, you already have a car payment, what should you do? If you are like the 100 million Americans with a car payment right now, I would encourage you to pay it off as quickly as possible. Here are a few tips:

• Make extra payments toward the principal balance. This will lower the total amount of interest you’ll pay and will allow you to pay it off more quickly. You just have to be sure that any extra money you put with your payment is actually going to principal rather than an advance on your next payment. The bank my BMW loan was through had any additional money going toward the next payment by default, so I’d have to manually change it to principal each month. Remember, the bank doesn’t want you to pay it this way because it works in your favor, not theirs.

  IMPORTANT: Because of the compounding effect of interest, the sooner you start making larger principal payments, the more money you will save!

• Get creative. I decided to pay my car off early by writing a check for the last $7,000 I owed. I looked around my house and sold a bunch of stuff on eBay. Everything from shoes and video games, to camera gear I wasn’t using. I ended up selling $1,700 of stuff that was just sitting in my closet. Nowadays, it’s easier than ever to monetize your hobbies, be it YouTube, TikTok and I finally just got re-monetized on Instagram. I have a video showing how to get started with affiliate marketing and one commenter said they were making an extra $150 a month with Amazon Associates thanks to my video, and you could put that extra cash toward principal each month.

• Get aggressive and intentional about paying it off early. Rounding up the change on your payment each month isn’t going to cut it. Get serious, make some sacrifices, and throw any extra money that you can at it. In my case, I did have cash savings to cover the remaining $5,300 balance, but I was conflicted because it was earning 5% in a high interest savings account, which was more than the interest I was paying on the loan. Ultimately though, the peace that comes with being debt free far exceeded the small spread I was earning.

Note that some banks charge a penalty for an early payoff. I haven’t encountered that with any car loan I’ve had, but double check with your bank to be safe. Also, your credit score will go down when the loan is paid off and your account closes. Mine dropped 5 points as a direct result of paying off my BMW, but remember your credit score is going to go down a few points whether you pay it off early or drag the loan to it’s maturity, so don’t let this hold you back from an early payoff.

It’s my finance buddy’s opinion (the guy who made fun off me in the last section) that people should hold on to their low interest car debt and try to invest at a higher rate of return instead. Here are my counter arguments. 1 - If someone’s priority is to invest more, they could simply buy a cheaper car to begin with. 2 - Paying off debt is a guaranteed rate of return, unlike the stock market. 3 - His plan is great… in a perfect world where nobody gets laid off, never has big unexpected expenses, and always makes solid returns in the market. 4 - His plan doesn’t take into account the emotional toll that consumer debt has on us.

My Car Buying Rules

Personally, I think I’m done financing cars. But I want to leave you with a few car buying tips. I’m not a financial advisor or a car salesman, this is just what I would do.

1. Save a 6 month emergency fund before buying a car that’s not included in the car purchase. Emergencies and job losses happen. Be prepared.

2. Buy used and let the first owner take the big depreciation hit. I saved over $20,000 on my 340i compared to the original sticker price by buying used.

3. Don’t buy a car that costs more than half your annual income. Cars go down in value, don’t let your car destroy your net worth.

4. Consider the total cost of ownership including insurance*, gas and routine maintenance, all of which add up quickly.

5. Pay the loan off early. Just because you have a 5 year loan doesn’t mean you have to take 5 years to pay it.

*Pro tip: Get a quote from your car insurance company before making a car purchase. Many people end up with sticker shock when they receive their first updated insurance bill in the mail after buying a new car. If you call your insurance company ahead of time and provide them with the make, model and year of the car you’re considering, they should be able to give you a quote instantly over the phone. Also note that your bank will require you to keep a full coverage policy on the car until it’s paid off. They want to make sure that the loan gets repaid even if the car is totaled in an accident.

Even for us car enthusiasts, there are so many cool cars out there that you could save up and pay cash for. My friend who bought my BMW 330xi from me paid cash, and he is still daily driving the car 4 years later. He just sent me pictures of him tearing up Tail of the Dragon in it. And by the way, I’m not saying that you shouldn’t buy an expensive car, I’m just telling you to be careful using debt to do it.

Consider this

One commenter on my YouTube video had a different approach. Rather than financing his dream car, a Porsche Cayman, he figured out what his payment would have been and put that amount into his savings account each month instead. After several years of setting aside $800 a month, he began to reflect on the time, effort and discipline that it took to save that amount of money and is now having second thoughts about buying the car.

When we finance a car, we get the reward up front and become numb to the payments. When we have the discipline to save first, it gives us a unique perspective of the value of our time. Saving up to buy a car comes with some other benefits as well. Rather than paying interest on a loan, you’ll be earning interest on your savings. Personally, I use a high interest savings account with Wealthfront (affiliate link) that currently pays 5% APY. Additionally, if you have an emergency along the way, the money is liquid in your bank account, not tied up in a hunk of steel sitting in your driveway.

tips from the comment section

“Another good piece of advice is to never roll your debt from one car into a new car alone. Or before you know it, you’ll be paying $1,000 a month for a Civic” - @speedcircuit

“If you’re younger and living at home or renting, your car payment will have a huge impact on your debt-to-income ratio, which affects what kind of house you can qualify for. Try and keep your car payment as ~10-15% of your income. It’s better to be invested in assets that appreciate!” - @KevG

A Lesson in Humility

When I bought my E90 330xi back in 2014, the payment and related expenses were a stretch for me financially. On top of that, I had no savings at all. At the time, I was working for an online vitamin company doing graphic design and marketing, and even helped get their youtube channel started, which unfortunately they didn’t see a lot of value in at the time. The company fell on hard times and I got let go.

A few weeks later, the manager called and told me they didn’t have anything in the office, but if I wanted to come back and work in the warehouse for $10/ hour until I found something else, they’d have me back.

So with my back against the wall, having a car payment and no savings, I took that job. I’ll never forget my first day as a warehouse worker. Pulling up in my fancy BMW that I could barely afford. The way the building was set up, you had to come in the front to punch in, then walk through the air condition office, past my old colleagues who are wearing nice clothes. And here I am in gym shorts and a t-shirt ready for my first lesson in packing boxes in a hot warehouse.

That whole situation could have been avoided if I had some money saved and actually had a plan. Even though our financial situation was completely different when we bought the 340, it was still a risk that I don’t think I’ll take again. It just feels so good to not have car payments anymore.

Sources:

Average car payment Yahoo! Finance https://finance.yahoo.com/news/average-auto-loan-payments-expect-174817148.html#
Average new car price KBB https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/when-will-car-prices-drop/
Average interest rates Market Watch https://www.marketwatch.com/guides/car-loans/auto-loan-interest-rates-by-credit-score/
Total car debt Investopdia https://www.investopedia.com/personal-finance/american-debt-auto-loan-debt/
Average American savings Forbes Advisor https://www.investopedia.com/personal-finance/american-debt-auto-loan-debt/
Cars with late payments Lending Tree https://www.lendingtree.com/auto/debt-statistics/#:~:text=Auto%20loan%20delinquency%20rates%20are,the%20first%20quarter%20of%202023.

*This blog contains affiliate links. If you click my custom link to purchase a product, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

BMW Grinding Sound While Accelerating? Here's How to Fix it!

Does your BMW make a grinding or rattling noise while accelerating? This was a widespread issue that plagued many BMW models from around 2012-2018. These include the 2 Series, 3 Series, 4 Series, M3, M4 and many others. Luckily it’s a simple fix, although it’s a bit of work to get to the part.

The problem

Parking brake cables hanging down, touching driveshaft.

Your BMW’s parking brake cables are held to the bottom of your car with a cheaply made plastic retainer clip (BMW part # 34406854898). Over time, the plastic clip becomes brittle and breaks, allowing the cables to hang down and touch the driveshaft and make a horrible noise when you accelerate.

At first, it will only happen under hard acceleration. Over time, gravity pulls the cables down and they will be in constant contact with the driveshaft.

AGA Tools now sells an all aluminum replacement that should last the life of your car. The part itself is not difficult to replace, but it’s in a tight space under the car with a few things in the way.

Forum users have reported dealerships quoting anywhere from $700-1,300 for this job. If you have the tools and are physically able to work under your car, you’ll save a ton of money if you can DIY this one.

tools you will need*

• Milwaukee ratchet

• Silicone spray

• 13mm ratcheting wrench

• T45 Torx bit

• Metric sockets

• Tube light (optional/ helpful)

parts

• AGA Parking Brake Retainer Clip

(affiliate links*)

DIY

Step 1: Jack Up Car

Jack up the car from the rear and support it with jack stands. I like to lift from the rear subframe.

Step 2: Unplug Exhaust Valve

Unplug the wiring harness from the exhaust valve controller.

Step 3: Remove Exhaust Support

Remove six T45 bolts to remove the exhaust support brace.

Step 4: Lower Exhaust

Remove two 13mm nuts from the exhaust hangers to lower the exhaust. Support the exhaust with one hand while removing the second nut and be ready for it to drop down. I lowered mine onto a block of wood to keep it off the ground.

Step 5: Remove Heat Shield

Remove about a dozen 10mm nuts to remove the exhaust heat shield. The edges are sharp so I recommend wearing gloves. Be careful not to bend it out of shape while pulling it out.

With the exhaust and heat shield out of the way, you’ll have a clear view of the retainer clip which is attached to the fuel tank, right above the driveshaft.

Step 6: Remove Factory Clip

Remove the 13mm nut from the factory clip. A ratcheting 13mm box wrench like this makes this a breeze.

Location of the four plastic rivets.

Spray silicone onto the rubber grommet, then use pliers to pull the plastic clip off the grommet. You may need to wiggle it back and forth to help the silicone penetrate. Be careful not to damage the grommet, as the new AGA clip re-uses the factory grommet.

Step 7: Install New AGA Tools Clip

Install the top portion of the AGA retainer clip into the rubber grommet. The notch on top will fit into a groove in the fuel tank.

Install the rubber insulators included in the kit around the parking brake cables, then install the bottom portion of the clip with the retainers facing forward. Secure it in place with the 13mm nut provided in the kit. AGA recommends spraying both the insulators and the inside of the retainers with silicone spray.

I had trouble getting the nut to thread on due to the thickness of the rubber insulators, but with patience and some elbow grease, I was finally able to get it to thread.

Step 8: Reassemble

Reassemble everything in reverse order. Install the heat shield, lift the exhaust back up and secure the hangers. Install the exhaust plate and plug in the valve controller.

Conclusion:

At $130, this clip is expensive for what it is. But if you’re able to install it yourself, you will still save a ton of money over the dealership replacing your broken clip with another crappy plastic one. The aluminum clip offers peace of mind that you will never have to deal with this issue again.

watch the diy video

*This blog contains affiliate links. If you click my custom link to purchase a product, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

minimalist desk setup 2024

I don’t know about you, but I can’t function with a cluttered workspace. I try to keep my desk as simple as possible. I like a clean, minimalist aesthetic which extends to the tools and products I use for work.

Affiliate disclosure: This blog contains affiliate links. I earn a small commission if you purchase a product through my custom link.

M1 Mac mini (2020)

16GB RAM, 1TB storage

The M1 Mac Mini has been the workhorse behind my video editing since 2020. It has no problem editing 4K footage in full resolution. These are my favorite computers out of Apple’s lineup. I’m not a laptop guy myself. I like having a designated space to sit down to work. The Mac Mini is less expensive than the iMac, and you can choose whichever monitor you’d like.

This thing is TINY, and barely takes up any space on my desk. My only complaint is the lack of ports. If you have more than four peripherals, you will need some sort of hub, or you’ll find yourself needing to unplug things to free up space (see my Bluetooth mouse and keyboard recommendations later in this post.)

Logitech MX Master 3

The Logitech MX Master 3 is vastly superior to the Apple Mouse in every way and costs around the same. I actually feel bad for people who refuse to use anything other than the Apple Mouse. My hand hurts just remembering using mine [laughs].

The MX Master 3 is just as comfortable as it is functional. Between the programmable buttons, hyper scroll wheel, and ridiculous battery life, I can’t recommend this mouse enough. I mean, even MKBHD uses one! Oh, and.. you can use it while it’s charging! Take THAT Apple!

(latest model)

Keychron K2 Keyboard

The Keychon K2 Keyboard was another massive upgrade over the paper-thin Apple keyboard. It’s like Apple said, “let’s take the worst thing about using a laptop (the typing experience) and included that with our desktop computers.”

Once you type on a mechanical keyboard, there’s no going back. The keystrokes have a tactile feel that make me want to sit down and type. The Keychron K2 has full RGB backlighting that can do various animated color patterns or solid colors. I like red personally.

Keychron offers a variety of configurations for these keyboards including one with a full number pad. Whichever variant you choose, it includes both Mac and PC exclusive keys so you can install the corresponding ones for your OS. There’s a switch on the side to toggle between Mac and Windows.

Edifier R1280DB speakers

I’m not much of an audio guy, but these Edifier speakers sound good enough to me. I use them for video editing and listening to podcasts and music. They can play music wirelessly via Bluetooth, but I just plug them in to the AUX port on my Mac Mini.

LG Ultrafine 27” 4k monitor

Like I mentioned earlier, a key advantage of the Mac Mini is being able to choose your display. I’m using an LG UltraFine 4k Monitor. I find that the colors are pretty accurate for both photo and video editing. I finally installed a wall mount to get it off my desk, cable management coming soon ;-)

LEGO volkswagen T2 camper van

I’m an avid LEGO enthusiast. I have a few different models that I keep in rotation above my desk. For the past year or so I’ve been enjoying this VW T2 Camper (set number 10279).

Artwork

I got this 911 skateboard deck from a site called Swine Eleven. Unfortunately, it looks like they no longer sell them. As some of you may know, I’ve been skateboarding since I was a kid. I thought it was cool to have a piece of artwork that combines the two things I love - skateboarding and cars.

Apple MagSafe charger

Ironically, my wireless charger is one of the only things plugged in to my computer and the only wire on my desk. One day, I went through and replaced all of the USB phone chargers in my house with MagSafe ones and haven't looked back.

Seiko Speedtimer

Not technically part of my desk setup, but I love this watch and wanted to mention it. The Seiko Speedtimer, reference number SSC813. I like the classic “panda” colorway, and with the restrained dimensions of 39 x 45.5mm, it fit’s nicely on my little baby wrist. It’s a solar quartz and the solar panels are cleverly used as the background of the chronograph subdials.

These originally retailed at $675, but nowadays you can find them brand new for well under MSRP. If you can find one in the $450-500 range, it’s a lot of watch for the money.

I hope you enjoyed my desk setup. As always, many of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you buy a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

BMW F30 340i iPhone Wallpapers

enjoy ;)

How to Replace Your BMW's Sticky Door Handles

Are your BMW’s door handles sticky? You’re not alone. This was an ongoing issue for BMW for 20 years. In this article, I will show you how to replace your gross sticky door handles with new ones.

The problem

The inside of many BMW door handles are rubber to give them a more premium feel. But over time, a combination of heat and the oils on your skin cause the rubber to deteriorate. Some products like sunscreen and bug spray contain chemicals that can act like solvents on rubber surfaces. 

So you get out of your car on a hot day, grab the door handle, and your hand looks like you just wiped with cheap single ply toilet paper. Not exactly what you want from your premium German vehicle. There’s not really a “fix” for it, you just have to replace the handles with new ones. 

If you were to replace them with new OEM handles, it would only be a matter of time before the new ones have the same issue. The ones I’m installing today are from Kies Motorsports. It’s the same handle design, but it’s all ABS plastic without the thick rubber layer. 

tools you will need

• T20 Torx screwdriver

• Interior pry tools

• Drill with 3/8”s drill bit

parts

• Handles for F30 3 Series/ F80 M3

• Handles for F32 4 Series/ F82 M4

• Handles for F36 4 Series Gran Coupe

(affiliate links*)

Replacing the handles

Step 1: Remove the trim cover.

There is a notch under the door handle to fit an interior pry tool. Start in the middle, then work your way up the top. The trim hooks in at the top and slides in at the bottom.

Step 2: Remove two T20 screws.

Remove the two long black T20 screws from the door handle. These screws atattch the door panel to the metal of the door.

Step 3: Remove the window switch.

With the trim removed, there is an access hole in the handle where you can insert a screwdriver. Press the tab in with the screwdriver while simultaneously pulling up on the switch. Lift the switch out of the door and disconnect the locking harness. (In my YouTube DIY, I released the tab from the back side which was MUCH more difficult. My subscribers were quick to point out the access hole in the front. Thanks guys!)

Step 4: Remove the door panel.

Using a larger pry tool, pry off the door panel. Start at the bottom, then work your way up the sides, finishing at the top. If you’ve never removed your door panel before, the fasteners are super tight. Be mindful of the door lock indicator when lifting the panel away. Note that there are still several wiring harnesses plugged in to the panel. I set it on a 5 gallon bucket as to not put tension on the wires.

Step 5: Unhook the door release cable.

Pull down on the white part of the cable to release the tension, then unhook the cable from the top.

Step 6: Unplug the wiring harnesses.

Unplug the wires for the ambient door lighting and the puddle light. Pull the harness from the window switch from the previous step through the door. With everything disconnected, you can set the door panel on the ground. I put a blanket down to protect the leather on the finished side.

Step 7: Drill out plastic door handle rivets.

Location of the four plastic rivets.

The original door handles are held on with plastic rivets. We need to drill through them to remove them. Then the new door handles from Kies Motorsports are held on with T20 screws (provided in the door handle kit).

I used a drill with a 3/8” bit. There’s a trick to getting these off. You don’t want to drill all the way through to the other side. Instead, you’ll want to put some weight on the drill so the drill bit “bites” the plastic rivet, then with one quick burst of the drill, sheer the rivet clean off. Once all four rivets are removed, you can take the old handle off the door.

Step 8: Install the new handle.

Install the new handle on the front side of the door, then use the T20 screws from the kit to secure it from the back. Keep in mind that you are only screwing them in to plastic, so do them by hand and don’t over-tighten them.

Step 9: Reassemble the door.

With your new handle installed, put it all back together in reverse order. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the window switch, ambient lighting and puddle light. Re-connect the door lever cable. Before putting the door panel on, put your car in “accessory mode” and make sure all of the electronics work. Re-install the door panel starting at the top and working your way down. Re-install the two long black T20 screws into the handle and replace the trim cover.

watch the diy video

*This blog contains affiliate links. If you click my custom link to purchase a product, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Every Automotive Photographer needs a 50mm Lens

If you’re into automotive photo and video and are looking to upgrade from your kit lens, or maybe you’re brand new to photography and aren’t sure what to buy, a 50mm lens should be high on your list. The model that I use is for Canon RF cameras, but every camera manufacturer has their own version of this lens. 

You may hear it affectionately referred to as a “Nifty Fifty” or “Plastic Fantastic.” The point is, they are small, lightweight and affordable. The Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 is around $170 brand new. Here are some links to affordable 50mm lenses, be sure to choose one that fits your camera body.

50mm f/1.8 for Canon RF Mount buy here
50mm f/1.8 for Canon EF Mount buy here
50mm f/1.8 for Sony E Mount buy here
50mm f/1.8 for Nikon F Mount buy here
50mm f/1.8 for Nikon Z Mount buy here

(Affiliate links)

Why 50mm?

50mm is considered a “normal focal length,” meaning that it gives us a similar perspective to what we see with our eyes. That’s why photos and videos taken with a 50mm have a familiar look to them. Different focal lengths will change how a car appears in photos. If the lens is too wide, it can throw off the proportions of the car, making the hood appear too long, or making the wheels appear egg shaped. With focal lengths longer than 50mm, the car can appear smooshed from certain angles. 

A photo taken with a 50mm lens will give the car the same perspective as though we were standing next to it and looking at it in person. Keep in mind that if you’re using a crop sensor camera, it will be more like 85mm which is still a popular focal length for shooting cars, you’ll just have to stand further back to get the same framing.

The large f/1.8 aperture can create pleasing background blur.

For those coming from a kit lens, the 50mm has one huge advantage, a large f/1.8 aperture. At f/1.8, the lens lets more light into the camera meaning you can shoot in low light without introducing as much noise or “grain” into the photo. It also gives you shallower depth of field where the car is in sharp focus with a creamy blurred background. If you’ve ever seen a professional car photo with a blurry background and wondered how it’s done, they’re using a large aperture lens like this. 

The effect works for video as well. I use it often in my YouTube videos to isolate something in the scene that I want the viewer to focus on. If you check out my Car Wash DIY from a few months back, that entire video was shot on this lens. 

RF 50mm f/1.8 mounted on my Canon R5

Another benefit that a lot of reviewers skip over is it’s form factor. These lenses are tiny and hardly add any weight to the camera. That’s why it’s my go-to for car shows or meets where don’t want to lug around a heavy setup where the camera takes away from my enjoyment of the show. 50mm in general is an excellent all-purpose focal length. Beyond cars, it’s great for portraits, travel, and family get togethers.. any time I want to take professional looking photos but don’t want to bring a bunch of equipment with me, this is my go-to. This could almost, almost be my only lens. 

Color fringing can easily be corrected in Adobe Lightroom.

Being that this is an entry level lens, the optics aren’t perfect, and a common issue with nifty fifty’s is color fringing where you’ll see green or magenta halos around high contrast areas. I notice it the most around the headlights where you’ll see that pink outline around the running lights. Adobe Lightroom has a de-fringe tool where you can easily remove this from your photos with a couple clicks. And for those of us just shooting for Instagram and social media, the optical performance is satisfactory. It’s not until you start zooming in on a high-res monitor that you’ll notice these shortcomings.

For video

The light weight and small size makes the 50mm f/1.8 easy to balance on a gimbal.

The 50mm is great for video as well. Every reel that I’ve ever made for Instagram has been shot with this lens. People will ask what lens I’m using and they’re shocked to find out that the videos are shot using something so inexpensive. Being that it’s so lightweight, it makes it easy to balance on a gimbal and allows me to shoot for long periods of time without feeling fatigued. Keep in mind that these 50mm lenses don’t have stabilization. If you’re shooting on a tripod, it’s a non-issue. But for any kind of camera movement, a gimbal is almost a necessity. 

Like I mentioned earlier, you can use shallow depth of field to your advantage in video to isolate what you want the viewer to focus on. The shallow depth of field combined with good lighting can create aesthetically pleasing.. dare I say “cinematic” looking shots. The video autofocus on the RF 50mm paired with my Canon R5 is phenomenal. I use the car tracking feature when the whole car is in the frame and I’ll typically use center point AF or tap-to-track if I’m shooting a close up section of the car. The STM autofocus motor on this RF model is silent and isn’t picked up by the microphone. 

Low light performance

Another benefit of a 50mm over the kit lens is low light performance. Since the large f/1.8 aperture lets more light into the camera, you can shoot with a lower ISO which keeps the noise down. Using the RF 50mm paired with my Canon R5, the video autofocus works remarkably well in low light situations.

Accessories

K&F polarizer + ND combo filter.

For automotive photography, I highly recommend getting a polarizer filter to go with your 50mm. A polarizer changes how light reflects off of glass and metallic surfaces like paint. The Canon RF 50mm has a 43mm filter thread. If you’re unsure what size filter you need, it’s printed on the front of the lens. 

For video, my secret weapon for getting car footage is this K&F filter that has a polarizer and ND built into one. The polarizer helps you control reflections while the ND filter controls how much light can enter the lens. That allows you to use the wide f/1.8 aperture outdoors in bright light while maintaining a 1/50 shutter speed. Since these filters can get expensive, I bought one larger size filter that fits my 24-105mm lens, then I use a step-up ring so I can adapt the same filter on my 50mm with a smaller filter thread. 

The last accessory I’d recommend is a lens hood. Usually these are included with more expensive lenses, but sadly Canon doesn’t include it with the nifty 50, so you’ll have to buy it separately. I have’t bought one yet, but there have been plenty of situations where I needed one and ended up using my hand to block out glare.

Whether you’re looking to upgrade from your kit lens, or just looking for a solid lens for automotive photo and video, a 50mm f/1.8 is an excellent choice. 

Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 Technical Specifications

Focal length: 50mm
Maximum aperture: f/1.8
Minumum aperture: f/22
Minimum focus distance: 11.8” (30 cm)
Diaphragm blades: 7, rounded
Focus type: Autofocus
Image stabilization: no
Dimensions: 2.7 x 1.6" (69 x 40 mm)
Weight: 5.6 oz (160 g)

For more sample photos and videos show with the Canon RF 50mm f/1.8, check me out on Instagram @justinbuice.

This blog contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of my custom links, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you! Win!

Is Your Car Roadtrip Ready? | My Roadtrip Checklist ✓

Road trip season is upon us. Before you hit the open road, here are a few things you’ll want to pack in your car. Every time this topic comes up, someone always asks, “Why bother with any of that? Why not just get roadside assistance.” Well, I have AAA, but that doesn’t mean I leave home unprepared. AAA is great for peace-of-mind, but I don’t want to be left stranded over something silly like a tire puncture or a dead battery. Also, anyone who has ever had to use their roadside assistance knows that they don’t exactly rush to your rescue. 

Small tool kit

This tool kit from Wera Tools (8100 SB 7 Zyklop) is perfect for travel. It contains a handful of commonly used metric sockets as well as 16 screwdriver bits including Phillips and Torx. It’s compact and fits perfectly in the side storage of my F30’s trunk along with the owner’s manual. You don’t need to bring your entire tool chest with you, but having a handful of neatly packed tools is a smart idea. 

Buy Wera tool kit here

Spare Tire

A flat tire is perhaps the most common reason that people get stranded on the road. Back in the day, cars came with spare tires, then half size or “donut” spares, and nowadays in many cases, no spare at all. Even if your car came with run-flat tires, keep in mind that you can only drive up to 50 mph for up to 50 miles with a flat. My solution? A full size wheel and tire. With a full size spare, you can swap it out and continue on your journey as though nothing happened. This fits in my F30 trunk with enough room for luggage for two people. I bought this exact setup on Amazon of all places. 

Buy 18x8” wheel here
Buy 245/40/R18 tire here

Tire repair kit and compressor 

If you don’t want to carry a full size spare in your trunk, you should at least have a portable air compressor and a tire repair kit. I’ve had this compressor for years and it has saved me on a couple of occasions. By the way, it’s a good idea to check your tire pressure before a long trip. Not only could it reveal a potential leak, but having your tires properly inflated will save you a few MPG as well. This one plugs in to your car’s 12V outlet and has a built in digital pressure gauge and flashlight. I also keep this Slime Tire Tackle kit which has everything you need to repair a nail puncture. Road trip or not, it’s a good idea to keep both of these in your trunk at all times.

Buy portable compressor here
Buy tire repair kit here
Buy digital tire gauge here

Jack & Breaker bar

Of course if you’re going to do any kind of tire repair or replacement on the road, you’ll need a way to get the wheels off the car. You’ll want to pack a portable jack and a breaker bar. My F30 3 Series, like many BMW’s uses a 17mm socket for the lugs. Before you head out, make sure the jack actually fits under your car. I drove around with a jack in my trunk for years, only to test it one day and find out that it was WAY to tall and would have been useless in an emergency. Here is a link to the exact one I have now that fits under my lowered car. 

Buy portable jack here
Buy breaker bar here
Buy torque wrench here
Buy 17mm wheel socket here

Powerstation

An item I like to keep in my glovebox is this Mophie Powerstation Go. It’s a multi-purpose battery brick that can jump-start your car, charge your phone, and even power a laptop. It also has a flashlight and red flashing hazard light. My only complaint about the Powerstation Go is that the one USB-C port can only be used to charge the Powerstation itself. The other ports that output power are only USB-A. It would have been nice if ALL of the ports were USB-C. Like many of the items on this list, this isn’t just for road trips. It’s small enough that it can live in your glovebox at all times. Just check the power level indicator every so often so it’s ready when you need it. 

FEATURES:

• 55 watt hour battery

• jump-starter/ jumper cables

• car battery voltage test

• 65 watt AC port

• USB-A ports (x2)

• flash light

• flashing SOS light

Buy Powerstation here

Carly Adapter (or something like it) 

Carly is an app that I’ve been using for years. It’s a BMW-specific diagnostic tool that’s designed for anyone with any experience level to be able to use and understand. If you get the dreaded “Service Engine Soon” warning, Carly is a quick and easy way to diagnose your car on the road. By plugging the Carly adapter into your OBD II port and connecting to the Carly app on your phone, you can determine whether it’s a minor issue where you could continue driving to a service center, or if it’s something serious that would require a tow. Carly may not be the most powerful diagnostic tool in existence, but it’s easily the most convenient.

Buy Carly adapter here

Extra oil and coolant

These might seem like overkill, but this is a BMW after all. I like to bring a single liter bottle of oil and a bottle that’s premixed 50/50 with coolant and distilled water. Speaking from experience, keep these two in a plastic bag in your trunk in case they spill. 

Buy extra oil here
Buy extra coolant here

CHECKLIST

• Wera tool kit: buy here

• 18” spare wheel: buy here

• 18” spare tire: buy here

• Portable air compressor: buy here

• Tire repair kit: buy here

• Digital tire gauge: buy here

• Portable jack: buy here

• Breaker bar: buy here

• Torque wrench: buy here

• 17mm wheel socket: buy here

• Mophie Powerststion Go: buy here

• Carly Adapter: buy here

• 1L 0W-20 oil: buy here

• BMW coolant: buy here

These are the main items I’d recommend packing for a road trip. Roadside assistance is great, but I also want to be prepared. Many of the items I mentioned are inexpensive and don’t take up much room anyway. I wish you all safe travels this summer, and of course, enjoy the drive!

Affiliate Disclosure: This blog contains affiliate links. If you click my custom link to buy a product, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Some of the items in this list were provided to me for free by Kies Motorsports, while others were purchased by me at regular retail price.

How to Replace Your BMW Key Fob Battery

If your BMW gives you the warning message, “Remote Control: Replace Battery,” fear not, it’s easy to replace and does not require a trip to the dealership. On F generation BMW’s, the batteries are user replaceable and can be purchased anywhere.

Battery: CR2450 buy here
Tools required: flathead screwdriver
Install time: 30 seconds [laughs]

Step 1

Press the rectangular button on the back of your key fob and pull out the physical key. FIY, this key unlocks the tumbler on your driver’s door handle if the key battery dies. It can also be used to lock your glove box.

Step 2

Use the physical key to pry up on the hole to the right of the rectangular button. It requires some force, but be careful not to break the plastic.

Step 3

Remove the old battery. Unless you have long fingernails, you’ll need a flathead screwdriver to pry it out.

Step 4

Insert your new CR2450 battery with the positive side facing up.

Step 5

Reinstall the back cover and snap the physical key back in place. These batteries typically last around two years.

I’m not sure what the dealership charges for this, but it is certainly more than the $5 it will cost you to replace it yourself!

This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

Ultimate Guide to F30 BMW Interior Mods

Spring is right around the corner, and warmer weather means car meets, modifications, and catching up on maintenance that you may have put off during the winter. I recently completed the interior upgrades on my BMW 340i and thought I’d make a guide for some of the most popular interior modifications for the F30/ F32. Many of these apply to the M3 and M4 as well. Hopefully this inspires you to do some of these on your interior!

I’ve done individual installation guides for everything I’m going to mention, feel free to check out the video playlist here. But since these were done over the course of two years and many new people have found my channel since then, I think it’s helpful to have all of the modifications consolidated in one article.

M Performance Carbon Fiber Interior Trim
Brand: Genuine BMW
Install time: 30 minutes

M Performance embroidery on dash trim.

In stock from, the F30 interior is underwhelming. In fact, many people felt it was a step backwards from the E90 interior. Luckily, BMW offers a very nice interior trim kit that completely elevates the look and feel of the interior. It adds textures like dry carbon fiber and alcantara and makes the car feel more premium. The main interior trim kit includes the dashboard trim, center console and door handles. The pieces fit the same on both the 3 and 4 Series, but the 3 Series kit includes handles for the rear doors as well.

Center console trim and door handles.

Sold separately are the M Performance automatic shift knob, gear selector baseplate and parking brake handle. These trim pieces are not cheap, but being Genuine BMW parts, the quality and fitment is exceptional. Note that these pieces are not veneers or stickers. These completely replace the original trim, clips and all. Best of all, the installation is super easy and requires nothing more than a set of interior pry tools.

Automatic shift knob and baseplate.

P3 Vent Gauge
Brand: P3 Cars
Install time: 30 minutes.

P3 Vent Gauge.

The P3 Vent gauge is one of my favorite modifications on the whole car. It’s a digital gauge that fits seamlessly in your factory air vent and can display around a dozen different parameters. I keep mine on boost because it’s the most exciting to look at while driving. The gauge even has the ability to read and clear engine fault codes which is super convenient.

Available parameters:
- Boost
- Coolant temperature
- Air/Fuel ratio
- Vehicle speed
- Intake air temperature
- Throttle angle
- Ignition timing
- Engine RPM
- Exhaust gas temperature
- Battery voltage
- Programmable shift light
- Acceleration timers (0-60mph/0-100mph/60-130mph)
- Braking timers (60-0mph/100-0mph)

There are a few different options to choose from. You can get white digits with orange bars like I have, or all orange for a more OEM look. You can also choose to buy the screen by itself and install it into your existing vent, or purchase it pre-installed into an OEM vent. Honestly, save your money and install it yourself. If you can build LEGOs, you can install this screen.

I have the digital version of the P3 Gauge which simply plugs into the cars OBD II port. It needs to be plugged in at all times in order to work. You can purchase an adapter that would allow you to plug in multiple devices at once, but I just unplug mine when I need to use the port OBD port for coding and diagnostics.

P3 Gauge displaying boost pressure in PSI.

M1, M2 Steering Wheel Buttons

Brand: MN Laser Cutting
Instal time: 1 hour

I get a lot of questions about the M1 and M2 buttons on the steering wheel. People ask if they actually do anything or if they’re just for decoration. These were sent to me by @mnlasercutting on Instagram and they allow you to switch between comfort, sport and Eco Pro right from the steering wheel. They include a wiring harness that connects the buttons to the drive mode switch on the center console. The way that it’s wired, the center console switch remains fully functional which is nice. The kit is 100% plug-and-play and does not require any coding or soldering.

It’s a clever use of the the space on the steering wheel that otherwise has blank dummy buttons. Note that these are only compatible with the M Sport steering wheel and only on cars that don’t have adaptive cruise. The buttons are available in red or blue. I went with red to match my interior. I do wish there was a black option for a more OEM look.

Magnetic Paddle Shifters
Brand: JQ Werks & Madtrace
Install time: 30 minutes

A recent addition to my 340i interior are these magnetic paddle shifters by JQ Werks and Madtrace. Apparently magnetic paddle shifters have been popular for racing simulations, and now they are becoming available for real cars. As you pull the paddle to shift gears, the magnet snaps and gives a satisfying click, unlike the mushy stock paddles which just use rubber membranes.

While it doesn’t quite compare to shifting gears on a manual car, it makes for a more tactile driving experience compared to stock. The paddles are available in matte carbon fiber or aluminum (for a small up-charge). I originally installed the carbon fiber paddles, but mentioned in my video that I wish I had chosen the aluminum paddles to brighten up the interior. @jqwerks was kind enough to reach out to me on Instagram and sent me a pair. The aluminum paddles are more 3-dimensional than the carbon fiber ones and the cool feel of real metal oozes quality.

The installation is straight forward and anyone can install these in about 30 minutes. The hardest part is actually unplugging the stock paddles, as the harnesses are a tight fit.

Lightning Console Phone Charger
Brand: JD Cars
Install time: 1 hour

My friend and fellow content creator Jake who goes by @jd.cars on social media developed this wireless phone charger that is integrated into the cupholder portion of the center console. He told me about this product he was working on at a previous Kies event, and a year later it came to fruition. Much like the M1/ M2 buttons, it’s a clever use of a space that is otherwise blank. The kit includes all of the tools required for the installation which is a nice touch.

There is nothing more annoying than trying to drive with cords around the shifter, and since we’re already using Bluetooth for music, there’s even more reason to eliminate cords from our interiors completely. Not to mention the convenience of getting in the car and just plopping my phone down without having to fumble around for a cord. It accommodates my iPhone 14 Pro Max which is among the largest phones currently. The charging surface has a rubber pad and a lip that prevents the phone from flying off under hard acceleration. I love mods that add functionality while retaining the stock aesthetic. If you didn’t know better, you’d think the car came with it.

The Lightning Console can be installed in an hour and all of the wiring is included in the kit.

6WB Digital Cluster
Brand: Genuine BMW
Install time: 2 hours*

“6WB” was the option code for BMW’s digital gauge cluster that was offered toward the end of the F30 3 Series’ production cycle. The interface is dynamic and changes to reflect the drive mode that you’re in. By default when you start the car, you’re in comfort mode which most closely resembles the stock gauges. Switch to sport and the interface turns red with large numeric readouts for your speed and current gear selection. Switch to Eco Pro and the interface changes to blue and your tachometer is replaced with an efficient dynamics gauge.

I have been critical of digital gauges in the past, but the 6WB has received so much praise by my audience that I decided to try it for myself. While it’s taken some getting used to, I do prefer the aesthetic over the base analog gauges that my car came with. I only wish that BMW had done more with it and I feel as though they missed opportunities to add features and functionality, given the flexibility of a digital display. It does make the car feel 5 years newer and is a solid upgrade for those who are into tech and want to modernize their car.

*To be honest with you, this was the most difficult modification I have done to date. Going into it, I didn’t understand that starting with the base analog cluster would be more complicated than many of the install videos I had watched going from 6WA to 6WB. I had to learn how fiber optics work, then find the correct three-way fiber optic cable to connect the 6WB to the car’s existing fiber optic loop. Even coding it to the car was challenging and I had to have @bimmergeeks code it for me remotely.

Race Display Steering Wheel
Brand: Genuine BMW
Install time: 3 hours

The BMW Race Display steering wheel is easily my favorite part of the car. This wheel is considered by many to be the “Holy Grail” of Genuine BMW accessories. Like the name implies, there is a small display at the top of the wheel that can show a variety of helpful parameters. You can see oil and coolant temperature, lateral and longitudinal G-force, and quarter mile time just to name a few. Also built into the wheel are shift lights that have a graduated green to red color as RPM’s increase. Within the settings you can set the RPM that you want the shift lights to come on at. You can also adjust the brightness of the display and LED’s and choose metric or imperial units.

The wheel is controlled by these buttons at the 10 and 2 position using long, short and double presses. It takes some time to get the hang of, but once you figure it out, you can use it without too much thought. It’s cool to me, not only that this wheel even exists, but that it’s a Genuine BMW part. I think it says something about BMW’s understanding of their customer base.

The installation is tedious. There is no coding required, however you will be repining wires in both the steering column and in the footwell module which takes some time and patience. If even one wire is installed incorrectly, the wheel won’t work. I’d say this is an intermediate/ advanced install, but if you follow my installation guide carefully, I’m confident that you can do this at home.

Interior Care
The easiest and most cost effective way to improve your interior is to give it a thorough cleaning and then keep up with maintenance. Check out my interior cleaning guide which includes some of my favorite interior care products!

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

Is the BMW 6WB Digital Cluster Worth the Hype?

In this blog we’re taking a look at the 6WB digital cluster from BMW. I’m going to cover what it is, what it’s like to drive with, some things I don’t like about it, as well as an overview of the installation for those of you planning to do this retrofit at home. 

Affiliate Links:
6WB digital cluster https://geni.us/vv6yL
6WB digital cluster + coding session https://geni.us/biprtU
Race display steering wheel https://geni.us/iw2H
Kies WiFi adapter https://geni.us/NNFcv0c
Bimmergeeks Protool license https://geni.us/nxsNdN
3 way fiber optic cable https://ebay.to/3ItRJ3T

What is it?

6WB was the option code for BMW’s digital gauge cluster that was offered during the final years of the F30 3 Series production cycle. To clarify, this is a Genuine BMW part manufactured by Bosch. 

If you follow my channel closely, you know I’ve been critical of digital gauges in the past, but I think my main complaint is when manufacturers simply slap a television on the dashboard and call it “luxury” or “high-tech.” What I like about the 6WB cluster is that the screen is still molded into circular bezels, and it retains the design of analog gauges that we know and love, even if in a skeuomorphic way. 

Even though I’m a fan of analog gauges and mechanical watches, the design of the stock 3 Series cluster, especially the base version that I had was not my favorite. For being an analog cluster, the gauges themselves are very two-dimensional, plus the tiny calculator screen at the bottom of the base gauges always reminded me that my car wasn’t well optioned. Setting aside the digital aspect and going purely on design, I prefer the cleaner look of the 6WB cluster.

Comfort Mode

A standout feature of the 6WB cluster is that the entire interface changes to reflect the drive mode you’re in. By default, you are in Comfort Mode when you start the car. This mode most closely resembles the stock gauges. A nice detail is that as you accelerate, the numerals for the speedometer and tachometer swell up as the needle passes by. It’s a small detail that’s satisfying to watch.

Sport Mode

In Sport Mode, the interface changes to red and you’ve got a huge numeric readout for your speed. I find that this mode has the best legibility by far, which is a good thing since it’s the mode that many of us tend to be in the most.

Eco Pro mode

Switch the car to Eco Pro mode and the interface turns blue and your tachometer is replaced with an Efficient Dynamics meter. This is my least favorite mode aesthetically because the blue color doesn’t match anything else in the car, and it’s the hardest on the eyes at night.

Driving Impressions

6WB in harsh light

Behind the wheel, the 6WB has surprisingly good legibility in most lighting scenarios. All of the modes offer good contrast and the plastic lens does a decent job deflecting glare. 

There are rare situations in the evening when the sun is shining directly over my shoulder and the screen becomes washed out. At night time in Comfort Mode, the white text changes to the traditional red/orange BMW color to minimize eye strain.

As far as resolution, and without knowing the exact specs, it appears to be exactly the same is the iDrive screen, and from the driving position it is perfectly acceptable. If you want an idea of how the 6WB will look, simply look at your iDrive gauges. 

Sport mode at night

Sport Mode is my favorite aesthetically. It looks radically different than the analog gauges it replaces and having the current gear displayed in huge bold numbers is helpful. 

By default, the 6WB will only show your current gear selection with the transmission in manual mode. But with coding, you can enable the current gear to be displayed in full auto as well. Even in automatic mode, it’s helpful to know what gear you’re in, especially when merging onto the highway or overtaking. An xHP transmission tune will unlock this feature as well.

What I Don’t Like

The 6WB cluster is not without its quirks, and because this thing is SO expensive, I have to be critical and hold it to a higher standard so you guys can see exactly what you’re buying. 

At night, the screen has a blue-ish glow

First of all, this is not a cutting edge IPS display like you might find on a new flagship smartphone. This is a standard edge-lit LCD panel. It’s most obvious when you’re driving at night because the black parts of the display are never quite black. They always have a blue-ish glow that reminds you that you are in fact looking at a screen. 

Close up of analog oil temperature gauge

Another thing that becomes obvious at night is that the fuel and oil temperature gauges aren’t actually part of the display at all. They are analog gauges designed to look like part of the screen. The needles have a flat design and they’re encased behind a plastic window that gives the illusion that it’s all one piece. But again, at night time you’ll notice that these analog gauges don’t have the glow that the display portion does. It’s hard to tell from the driver’s seat, but if you get up close and shine a light on it just right, you’ll see what I’m talking about.

Speaking of the oil temperature gauge, on the stock cluster, there were numeric values so you could actually read what the engine temperature was. On the 6WB cluster, all you know is that the needle is somewhere in between hot and cold. From what I’ve observed, the needle will point dead center when the engine reaches its operating temperature of ~230 F (110 C) on the B58 engine. 

The center portion of the cluster is blank most of the time

My number one complaint of the 6WB cluster though, is the blank space between the two gauges. If you have service due, it will display a reminder here when you start the car. And if you have a factory installed navigation system, you can opt to display turn by turn directions here. But most of the time, that space is just blank. To me, it’s a huge missed opportunity by BMW. There are so many useful parameters that could have been displayed there. 

In Sport Mode it would have been so cool to have something like G-force or boost. In Eco Pro they could have had something like live tire pressure. And I’m just a bozo YouTuber from Michigan coming up with these ideas. Surely a software engineer at BMW could have found ways to make this more useful. 

Perhaps they didn’t want it to be better than the F80 M3 cluster. Or maybe since it came so late in the production cycle, it just wasn’t worth the effort. But I wish BMW had taken the opportunity to add features, rather than just creating a digital version of their analog gauges. 

Installation

The 6WB connects to the headunit with a fiber optic cable

Most F30 3 Series came with one of two gauge clusters, either the base analog cluster, or the 6WA extended cluster. Take note of which one your car came with because the installation is completely different depending on which cluster you’re starting with. 

For the majority who will be coming from a 6WA cluster, the installation is more straightforward because the wiring is already there. You are simply taking your old cluster out, disconnecting the wiring harness and fiber optic cable, and installing the 6WB cluster in its place. Kies Motorsports has a video showing how to code it using ProTool, and again, the coding process is simpler going from 6WA to 6WB. Watch their video here.

For those who are new to BMW who might be unfamiliar with coding, your car has a digital registry of all of the parts that are installed, and when you change any of the major electronic devices like the cluster for example, you need to tell the car that it’s been changed in order for it to work correctly, or at all. 

Three way fiber optic cable connects the 6WB and headunit to the car’s fiber optic loop

If you’re coming from the base analog cluster to the 6WB like I did, the install is a little more involved, but not impossible. After removing the cluster from the dashboard, you’ll need to remove the climate control faceplate and remove your headunit, both of which are held in with T-20 Torx screws. Then look at the wiring harness on the back. If you have an open fiber optic port on your headunit, you will need to buy a two way fiber optic cable that has two male ends. 

Remove the climate control faceplate and headunit to reach the harness

If your harness already has a green cable plugged in to the fiber optic port like mine did, you will need to buy a three way fiber optic cable with one female and two male ends. The male ends will plug into the 6WB cluster and the headunit, and the green cable that was already in the car will plug into the female end. The fiber optic cables are somewhat delicate, so be careful feeding it through the dash. 

Also, the one I ordered had this plastic sleeve on both of the male ends. You’ll need to use a pick tool to remove it from the end that will plug in to the headunit. As far as coding going from the base cluster to the 6WB, there are a few more steps but it all can be done within the BimmerGeeks ProTool app.

Before you purchase

If you’re thinking about buying a 6WB cluster, there are a couple things to know. There are two versions of the 6WB cluster, one for cars with heads up display (HUD) and one for cars without. If you order from Kies Motorsports, for ease of compatibility, they only sell the heads up display version. There’s no price difference, and it will still work for non heads up display cars like mine. It’s just easier logistically for them to sell the most compatible version. So if you don’t have heads up display, the blue port on the back of the 6WB cluster won’t be used. 

For those who don’t feel comfortable with the coding aspect, Kies Motorsports offers the cluster with a coding session with BimmerTech, where after you install it in the car, BimmerTech will code it for you remotely. It adds $300 to the purchase price, but it could save you some time and frustration if you’re not familiar with BMW coding. 

As a security feature, the 6WB cluster locks to your cars VIN after it’s been coded and flashed. The idea is if someone steals it, they won’t be able to install it in their car. But that means you have to be careful if you purchase a used one. There are some companies who can reset, or “virginize” the cluster, and you might see some for sale on eBay where the seller notes that it has been virginized. But to avoid potential headaches, and for ease of installation, I’d recommend buying a brand new one that’s never been installed in another car.

Should you buy it?

There’s no doubt that the 6WB cluster freshens up the F30 interior and makes the car feel 5 years newer. If you love gadgets and want a more modern feeling car, this is for you. Maybe you’ve been jonesing for a newer G20 3 Series but don’t have $45,000 to spend on a new car, this could be a nice upgrade to hold you over. 

That being said, you have to understand that this retrofit is almost purely aesthetic. Aside from the novelty of the digital interface, you aren’t really gaining features or functionality here. If you have some money to spend and you’re looking for an interior upgrade, I’d honestly recommend the race display steering wheel over the 6BW cluster. It’s only a little more expensive, but it feels like you’re getting a lot more for your money. 

Genuine BMW Race Display steering wheel

The wheel has craftsmanship, the alcantara is a luxurious texture. The display adds features like G-force and quarter mile time to name a few. Plus the shift lights really do add excitement to the driving experience. Oh, and it’s also a Genuine BMW part. If I had to choose between the two, I would go for the steering wheel first. 

Watch my video review of the 6WB cluster here:

This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win! Huge thank you to Kies Motorsports for sending me this cluster!

How to Upgrade Your BMW Paddle Shifters | JQ Werks Magnetic Paddles

Apparently, magnetic paddle shifters have been popular in racing simulations for a while, and now they are available for road cars. I say “apparently” because the closest I’ve gotten to a racing simulation is Mario Kart [laughs]. Kies Motorsports was kind enough to send me a pair of these magnetic paddles by JQ Werks & Madtrace.

If you’re wondering what a magnetic paddle shifter does or why you would want them, they use a magnet to give you a satisfying, tactile click when you shift gears. It’s a much better experience than the stock BMW paddles that use a mushy rubber membrane for resistance.

Inside the box, you’ve got your paddle modules with the paddles pre-installed. I opted for the matte carbon, but for those looking for an OEM+ look, aluminum paddles are available as well. Also in the box are a pair of smaller paddles for a more subtle look, plus the necessary hardware for installation.

Tools required:
- 10mm socket
- T-20 Torx

Install time:
1 hour

Step 1
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Step 2
Remove the airbag by pressing in the pins on the underside of the wheel while pulling out on the airbag itself. I find that an Allen wrench works best for this. Disconnect the airbag wiring harness.

Step 3
Remove the steering wheel trim. It’s held on with three T-20 Torx screws. The third is on the back side on the bottom.

Step 4
Remove the T-20 Torx screws to remove the paddles and disconnect them from their harnesses.

Step 5
Install the new paddles and plug them in. Note that the thread pitch on magnetic paddles is different than the stock ones, so be sure to use the hardware included in the kit. DO NOT try to force the stock hardware in.

Step 6
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Enjoy your new magnetic paddles!

Compatibility

BMW F Chassis

- M2/M2C | F87

- M3/M4 | F80/F81/F82/F83

- X5M/X6M | F85/F86

- Non-M 1 Series | F20/F21/F52

- Non-M 2 Series | F22/F23/F45/F46/

- Non-M 3 Series | F30/F31/F34/F35

- Non-M 4 Series | F32/F33/F36

- Non-M X3/X4 Series| F25/F26

- Non-M X5/X6 Series | F15/F16

- X1 | F48/F49

- i8 | I12/I15

BMW G Chassis (Some F Chassis Included)

- M2/M3/M4 | G87/G80/G82/G83

- M5 | F90

- M8 | F91/F92

- X3M/X4M | F97/F98

- X5M/X6M | F95/F96

- Non-M 1 Series | F40

- Non-M 2 Series | G42/G44

- Non-M 3 Series | G20/G21/G28

- Non-M 4 Series | G22/G23/G26

- Non-M 5 Series | G30/G31/G38/F90 M5

- Non-M 8 Series | G14/G15/G16

- Non-M X3/X4 Series | G01/G02/G08

- Non-M X5/X6 Series | G05/G06

- 7 Series | G11/G12

- X7 | G07

- Z4 | G29

This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase I product through my custom link, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

F30 M Sport Rear Bumper Conversion

In the BMW world, “M Sport” is a package sought out by enthusiasts that adds aggressive bumpers and side skirts, larger brakes, and driver focused suspension. Because F30’s with the M Sport package are so desirable, they tend to be harder to find and always demand a higher price. Luckily, for those of use who have bought a non-M Sport F30, changing the bumpers isn’t as difficult as you might think. In this guide, I’ll show you how to convert your F30 BMW’s rear bumper to an M Sport bumper. 

The M Sport bumpers from Kies Motorsports come unpainted. The paint shop will ask for your VIN number so they can order the exact paint color for your car. You’ll also give them your fuel door so they can be sure the color is a perfect match. Expect to pay around $400 to have the rear bumper professionally prepped and painted. I had the front bumper, rear bumper and side skirts painted all at once for $1,000. A quality professional paint job is not cheap, but this is not an area to cut corners (speaking from experience).

Tools required: Torx bit sockets, 8mm socket, electric ratchet
Install time: 2 hours

Step 1
Remove the T20 and 8mm screws in the wheel well.

Step 2
Remove the 8mm screws from the underside of the bumper

Step 3
Remove the plastic drip covers from the tail lights and remove the 10mm nuts.

Step 4
Pull straight back on the tail light and unplug the harness.

Step 5
Remove the 10mm screws from the top of the bumper.

Step 6
Put a piece of masking tape on the body of the car to protect the paint before removing the old bumper.

Step 7
Carefully remove the rear bumper. If you car has parking sensors like mine, each sensor has it’s own wiring harness. You’ll need to unplug each one while removing the bumper.

Step 8
Plug the parking sensor harnesses into the new M Sport bumper and install it on the car.

Step 9
Reinstall the tail lights and bumper hardware to secure it in place.

Watch the step-by-step installation guide here:

This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

BMW F30 3 Series Wireless Charger Retrofit

Wireless charging has become a standard feature in smartphones and I’ve personally replaced all of the phone chargers in my house with wireless ones. It makes even more sense in a car where you don’t want cords all over the place. In this article, I’ll show you how to install a vehicle specific wireless charger that’s integrated into the center console of your F30 or F80 BMW. You can purchase a JD Cars Lightning Console here and use my code JUSTIN5 to get 5% off.

My friend Jake who goes by JD Cars (@jd.cars) on social media is a content creator who is shifting into automotive product design. His first product, the JD Cars Lightning Console replaces the cupholder portion of your F30 center console with one that has a built in wireless charger. The Lightning Console is 100% plug-and-play, and looks stock which I love. If you didn’t know better, you’d think the car came with it.

The Lightning Console includes a small tool kit with everything you’ll need for the installation.

Ethics statement: This part was provided for free by JD Cars. I earn a commission if you purchase it through my custom link.

Features

• Integrated Wireless Charging Pad

• Smart Battery Protection - Automatically Prevents Overcharging

• Removable Anti-Skid Mat and Raised Lip Keeps Phone Secure

• 10 Watt Charging Output (at 1.5A)

• Qi 1.2 Wireless Charging Standard

• 164mm x 80mm Charging Pad

• Plug & Play - No Wiring Required

• Install in Less Than 1 Hour

• No Coding Required

• OEM+ Aesthetic

• Tools Included

Tools Required (included)
Interior pry tool
Pick tool
T20 Torx screwdriver

Installation Guide
Before you begin, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Step 1
Use the included interior trim removal tool to remove the center console trim.

Step 2
Unplug the iDrive controller.

Step 3
Remove gear selector trim.

Step 4
Remove drive mode selector switch and unplug it.

Step 5
Remove the two T20 screws from the cup holder portion of the center console.

Step 6
Remove the cup holder section by pulling up on the rear, then pulling out towards you. Be careful to not break any clips.

Step 7
Unplug the harnesses for the 12 volt outlet and the keyless entry module.

Step 8
Remove the 12 volt outlet from the cupholder and transfer it to the lightning console. Getting it out is kind of tricky. Use a pick tool to press the tabs inside the outlet while simultaneously pushing the outlet out from behind.

Step 9
Use a pick tool to transfer the six alagator clips from the stock cupholder to the Lightning Console. Be careful that you don’t bend them while removing them.

Step 10
Use a T20 screwdriver to transfer the keyless entry module from the stock cup holder to the Lightning Console.

Step 11
Install the 12 volt outlet. Note that if you have an LCI F30 like mine, you’ll need to use the included adapter ring.

Step 12
Plug in the wiring harness adapter that’s included in the kit.

Step 13
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Re-connect all of the harnesses and double check that the connections are secure.

If you did everything correctly, you should have a working wireless charger in your F30! The charger has a green LED indicator to let you know that it’s getting power. The light will turn red when you set your phone on it to indicate that it’s charging. Like all wireless chargers, you’ll want to be careful to keep metal objects like keys or coins away from the charging surface as they could become dangerously hot. The charger is large enough to accommodate my iPhone 14 Pro Max which is one of the largest phones on the market.

If you’re considering purchasing a JD Cars Lightning Charger, be sure to use my discount code JUSTIN5 to get 5% off your order.

Compatibility
BMW F30 320i (2012-2019)

BMW F30 328d (2012-2019)

BMW F30 328i (2012-2019)

BMW F30 335i (2012-2019)

BMW F30 ActiveHybrid 3 (2012-2019)

BMW F30 330i (2015-2019)

BMW F30 340i (2015-2019)

BMW F31 328d (2012-2019)

BMW F31 328i (2012-2019)

BMW F32 428i (2013-2019)

BMW F32 435i (2013-2019)

BMW F32 430i (2016-2019)

BMW F32 440i (2016-2019)

BMW F33 428i (2014-2019)

BMW F33 435i (2014-2019)

BMW F33 430i (2017-2019)

BMW F33 440i (2017-2019)

BMW F34 328i (2012-2019)

BMW F34 335i (2012-2019)

BMW F36 428i (2014-2019)

BMW F36 435i (2014-2019)

BMW F36 430i (2017-2019)

BMW F36 440i (2017-2019)

BMW F80 M3 (2014-2020)

BMW F80 M3 Comp (2016-2020)

BMW F80 M3 CS (2018-2020)

BMW F82 M4 (2013-2020)

BMW F83 M4 (2015-2020)

BMW F82 M4 Comp (2016-2020)

BMW F83 M4 CS (2017-2020)

BMW F82 M4 GTS (2016)

A Simple Car Wash Guide

Over the years, I’ve made adjustments to my car wash routine, both in the process and the products I use. In this simple guide, I’ll show you how I wash my own car. I will include affiliate links throughout the article for products I think you’ll love.

Supplies I Use

Pressure washer buy here (latest model)
Foam cannon buy here
Soap buy here
Tire & rubber cleaner buy here
Tire brush buy here
Wheel brush buy here
Grit guards buy here
Detail spray buy here
Leaf blower buy here
Wash pad buy here
Microfiber rags buy here
(affiliate links*)

I start by setting up my supplies. I set up a soap bucket, a rinse bucket, and a separate bucket for the wheels. I drop a pair of grit guards into the soap and rinse buckets. These help keep the dirt and sediment at the bottom of the bucket as I rinse my wash pad.

Next, I set up my pressure washer. Even a basic one like mine while completely elevate your car wash game. I connect the hose and turn on the water. Before turning on the pressure washer, I hold down the trigger to bleed air from the system. If you don’t do that, it will sputter for the first few minutes which is super annoying.

I’ll also set up my foam cannon. I have used Adam’s purple foam cannon soap in the past, but I find that their blue car wash soap works just as well and it’s a little cheaper. I mix a 10:1 ratio of water to soap.

I start with the wheels and tires which are the dirtiest part of the car. I hit them with the pressure washer to blow off any loose dirt and brake dust.

I spray the tires with tire and rubber cleaner, then scrub them with a tire brush. Tires have a preservative that works it’s way to the surface as you drive, leaving a dull brown residue on the surface of the tire. A tire and rubber cleaner is the best way to restore the deep black color.

I hit the wheel with some foam to ensure every surface is covered. I then hand wash the spokes with a microfiber rag. I have this little wheel brush which is perfect for cleaning inside the barrels. I do have some wheel-specific cleaners, but for my weekly car wash, soap and water work just fine. I’ll save the harsh chemicals for when the situation absolutely requires it.

I rinse the wheels thoroughly so that soap doesn’t dry on them while I wash the rest of the car.

While the body of the car is dry, I cover it with a generous coating of foam. Then I’ll wait about 5 minutes for gravity to pull the foam and dirt down. Note that I’m working in the shade and wearing clothing with no exposed zippers or buttons.

After allowing the foam to do its thing, I rinse the entire car from top to button. This pre-wash and rinse will help reduce swirls and scratches by removing a lot of heavy contaminants prior to making contact with the wash pad.

I wash the car in sections from top to bottom. I start with the roof and windows, then the hood and trunk, the doors and quarter panels, and finally the bumpers and side skirts.

To avoid swirls, wipe in straight lines. You don’t need to scrub the car like you’re doing dishes, simply guide the wash pad along using without putting pressure on it.

Lubrication is the name of the game here. I spray a generous coating of foam before wiping it with the wash pad.

In case you’re unfamiliar with the Two Bucket Method, you have one bucket of soapy water and one bucket of plain rinse water. After washing a section of the car, rinse the pad in the rinse bucket and then soap it up again. If the car is especially dirty, I might do this several times per section.

The side skirts and bumpers tend to be the dirtiest parts of the car so I save them for last.

After the entire car has been washer, I’ll do a final rinse.

I recently started using my leaf blower to dry the car and it works surprisingly well. I’d say it removes 90% of standing water and makes towel drying a breeze.

For the little bit of water that’s left, I dry it with a microfiber towel, using ceramic detailer as a drying aid. This not only adds lubrication to the towel, but also adds some protection and water repelling properties to the paint.

*This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I’ll earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Win!

Watch my step by step car wash guide here:

BMW F30 340i Long-Term Owner Review

The F30 340i has been an extremely popular choice for enthusiasts, and for good reason. They offer a reliable and highly capable engine in a practical everyday car. They’ve also reached that sweet spot in the market where they are old enough for ordinary people like myself to afford, while being new enough that you can easily find pristine, low mileage examples. 

If you follow my channel, you know that this isn’t just any 340i, this is my personal car that I’ve had for over two years. Today, I’ll explain what it’s been like to live with this car, I’ll discuss ownership costs, maintenance, as well as some modifications I’d recommend. 

WHAT IS IT?

The F30 was the sixth generation BMW 3 series and the 340i was the top model offered in the final years of production. Of all the engines that were offered for the F30, the B58 found in the 340i is the one to get. The B58 is a 3 liter turbocharged inline 6. In this application it produced 320 horsepower and 330 foot pounds of torque out of the box, but will easily make more with a few simple mods. More on that later in the blog.

WHAT I LOVE

My subjective opinion is that the F30 is the most aggressive looking 3 series. It’s hard to believe that this design is 10 years old. The 340i is just as practical as it is a capable performance car. You can tear up some backroads, or you pack your luggage and drive it across the country getting 30+ MPG. Or, you can go to Lowes and load it up with home improvement supplies. It’s a car that can do it all with few compromises. With a HUGE aftermarket for parts and a massive online community, it’s easy to see why these cars are in such high demand.

WHAT I HATE

The numb steering feel is a step backwards from the previous generation 3 Series.

The driving experience, at least in stock form feels soft, especially having owned an E90 before this. The F30 was the first 3 Series to have electric steering which feels numb and disconnected and took some time to get used to. BMW used to pride themselves on being the Ultimate Driving Machine, but on the road, the F30 lacks some of the character of BMW’s that came before it.

Even though the 340i was the top F30 model, you’ll still find some examples that are sparsely optioned. This car for example was sort of a stripper model. Luckily these cars are modular and many options can be retrofitted easily. Just keep in mind that buying a 340i doesn’t guarantee that you’re getting a well optioned car, despite the price tag.

Auto vs Manual, RWD vs AWD

The 340i was available in rear wheel drive and all wheel drive, and with either a 6 speed manual or 8 speed automatic transmission. For my car, I went with a rear wheel drive automatic and I don’t regret it. There was a time when manual transmissions were the default option for enthusiasts. But recently automatics have gotten really, REALLY good. In the case of this 8 speed auto, it’s slightly quicker while achieving better MPG than its 6 speed counterpart. 

Honestly though, you can’t go wrong either way, and considering the small performance difference between the two, it really comes down to personal preference. My only suggestion is if you’re a die hard manual fan, at least give this 8 speed a try, I think you’ll be impressed. 

Choosing between rear wheel drive and all wheel drive, or X-Drive as BMW calls it, is a question of how often you’ll drive in deep snow. Even though I live in a place that gets heavy snowfall, I live near main roads that get plowed quickly where I don’t need all wheel drive to get where I’m going. To put it simply, rear wheel drive is more fun and less maintenance. 

COST OF OWNERSHIP

If you’re considering buying a 340i, here are a few ownership costs to factor in.

• Full coverage insurance: $167/mo

• Michigan Registration: $231/yr

• Fuel: approx. $5/gal for premium. I average 27 mpg with mostly highway driving. I’ve observed 19 mpg for spirited driving and 34+ mpg on road trips

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

I made a list of some of the most common maintenance items for this car. These prices are based on using OE parts and assuming you will do the work yourself.

• Oil change: $80 (personally I change my oil twice per year).

• Cabin air filter: $21

• Engine air filter: $27

• Spark plugs: $90 (set of 6)

• Brake pads & wear sensors: $250 (front & rear)

• Genuine BMW battery: $270

Regular maintenance on this car is not difficult, and a novice DIY-er should be able to do most of the things I just mentioned with a basic tool set. Being an inline six, there is plenty of room under the hood to work. 

The timing chain on this car is located at the rear of the engine, and while B58’s are not known to have timing chain issues, servicing it will be difficult if the time ever comes. That’s why it’s crucial to keep up with regular oil changes. 

MODIFICATIONS

F30’s have a lot of support for mods, both aftermarket and Genuine BMW, and some parts are even interchangeable with the F80 M3. Being that the engine is shared with the Toyota Supra, there is a huge selection of performance upgrades available. Huge shoutout to Kiesmotorsports.com for sponsoring this entire build. 

My complete list of mods will be down below in this post, but here are the top three I’d recommend:

Suspension - I’m running Bilstein B16 coilovers which made the most dramatic improvement to this car out of all of the modifications I’ve done. The stock suspension on the F30, especially non-M sport models is on the soft side and changing them to aftermarket coilovers made a massive improvement to the car’s handling. Even a simple spring and shock upgrade like Bilstein’s B14 kit will be a huge improvement over stock.

Tune - One of the first things we did when I bought this car was a simple Bootmod3 stage 1 tune. Just with the tune alone we added 45 horsepower and 55 foot pounds of torque, increasing the power and torque to 365hp and 385 lb-ft respectively. It’s cool to be able to get to that power level without even opening the hood and while retaining stock reliability.

Like I said, this was one of the first modifications I did two years ago and I haven’t had any issues. The car has more than enough power for me, and I haven’t felt the need to get a bigger turbo or other horsepower mods that could potentially hurt reliability. One benefit of keeping the stock turbo is it spools quickly with very little lag, making it fun to drive around town.

M Performance Interior - BMW actually offers some pretty cool interior upgrades for this car like dry carbon fiber and alcantara trim pieces. They completely transform the look and feel of the interior, and while they’re kind of pricey, you get what you pay for. Everything is super high quality and being Genuine BMW parts, everything fits like stock.

COMMON PROBLEMS

It’s common for B58’s to lose coolant over time despite not having visible leaks.

I’m happy to report that in 2 years and around 20,000 miles of ownership, this car has not had any major problems. In fact, with 56,000 miles on the car currently, I haven’t got so much as a check engine light. Knock on plastic. Here are a few common B58 issues.

• Unexplained coolant loss
  Many B58 owners have noticed their main expansion tank slowly losing coolant over time despite not having any obvious leaks. First, check the cap on the expansion tank. if you see dried coolant on the threads, it’s possible that coolant is evaporating from an ill fitting cap.

  You can buy a replacement cap for around $15. If you replace the cap but are still loosing coolant, you’ll want to have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks. In any case, all 340i owners should check their coolant levels periodically.
  

• Some higher mileage B58 owners have reported leaking water pumps, leaking oil filter housings, leaks from the water to air intercooler and VANOS issues. Typical BMW stuff.
  

• While the B58 has a reputation for being a reliable engine over all with no widespread catastrophic issues, I suspect that the extensive use of plastic parts will be problematic as these cars age. Especially if previous generation BMW’s are any indicator of that.
  

• Not specific to the B58, but F30’s have a common issue where the retaining clips that hold the parking brake cables to the bottom of the car will break off allowing the cables to rub on the driveshaft and make a horrible noise. I have a video on how to replace it. It’s an $8 part but is fairly labor-intensive to replace. If you are physically able to, you’ll save a lot of money if you can DIY this one.

The used car market has been all over the place, but lately I’ve been seeing 340i’s for sale from $25-30,000 in my area. If you can find one under $30k, it’s a solid car for the price, especially considering that they cost upwards of $55,000 when they were brand new just a few years ago. You’re getting the performance and mod support of the new supra, with the everyday practicality and comfort of a 3 series. 

Complete Mod List:
Wheels:
Apex ARC-8R w/ brushed clear finish
Front: 18x8.5 ET35 buy here
Rear: 18x9.5 ET45 buy here

Tires:
Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4
Front: 245/40/R18
Rear: 275/35/R18

Suspension:
Bilstein B16 coilovers
Wiechers Sport front strut brace buy here

Brakes:
F80 M3 calipers buy here
Stoptech slotted rotors buy here
EBC Red Stuff pads buy here
Goodridge steel braided brake lines buy here

Engine:
Bootmod3 Stage 1 tune buy here
MST intake buy here
AWE Tuning exhaust buy here

Interior:
M Performance Race Display steering wheel buy here
M Performance dry carbon trim kit buy here
M Performance dry carbon gear selector and trim buy here
M Performance dry carbon e-brake buy here
Kies dry carbon paddle shifters buy here
P3 vent gauge buy here
Apple CarPlay MMI buy here

Exterior:
Carbon fiber side skirt extensions buy here
Carbon fiber rear diffuser buy here
Carbon fiber front lip buy here

How to Replace Your BMW F30 Spark Plugs | 340i, 440i or any B58

PARTS
NGK Spark Plug: 94201 (OE# :12120040551)

TOOLS REQUIRED
-Spark plug socket buy here
-Torque wrench buy here
-E TORX sockets buy here
-Spark plug gap gauge buy here
-10mm socket buy here

TIME
1.5 hours

Spark plugs are a part of your car’s regular maintenance, and changing them on time will ensure smooth engine operation and good fuel economy. On the B58, it’s recommended to change the spark plugs every 50,000 miles for cars that are stock, or 20,000-30,000 for cars that are tuned or modified.

Fortunately, changing the spark plugs on your B58 powered BMW is not difficult or expensive. In fact, you’ll spend more time getting to them than actually changing them.

While the ignition coils don’t have a set maintenance interval, you may want to change them as preventative maintenance if your car has high mileage. My personal recommendation is to change the coils at 70k miles based on my experience with my E90. Since you have to take the ignition coils out to get to the plugs anyway, it makes sense to change them all at once.

INSTALLATION

Step 1
Loosen the 10mm nut to remove the negative battery cable from the terminal.

Step 2
Lift straight up on the acoustic engine cover to remove it.

Step 3
Remove these triangular covers on both sides.

Step 4
Remove four E18 bolts to remove this chassis brace. You may need some extra leverage.

Step 5
Carefully pull the wire out of this rubber insulation and remove the insulation from the car.

Step 6
Remove the seven 10mm screws to remove this plastic cover.

Step 7
Carefully remove this foam sound deadening so it doesn’t rip on it’s way out.

Step 8
With everything out of the way, you now have unobscured access to all six spark plugs.

NGK 94201

For the spark plugs I went with the NGK 94201 which is an OE plug for the 340i. BMW has also used Champion plugs in the B58. My original plugs happened to be NGK but don’t be surprised if you see a different brand when you pull you original plugs.

The NGK 94201 is made specifically for the B58 and is pre-gapped to .030. You can use a gauge to double check that the gap is correct on all six spark plugs, although, they are packaged nicely with a cardboard tube that protects electrode.

There is a lot of discussion online whether or not you should change the gap so something like .022. For cars that are stock or stock with a basic stage 1 tune, the stock gap is fine and you can use the 94201 plugs straight out of the box. If you are running other mods like a big turbo or ethanol, check with your tuner and see what gap they recommend for your car.

Step 9
Unlock the ignition coil harness by lifting up on the center tab while simultaneously pulling out on the grey tab.

Step 10
Loosen the E8 bolt on top of the coil. Note that it’s part of the ignition coil and won’t come all the way out.

Step 11
Remove the spark plug. The B58 plugs use a thin wall, 14mm, 12 point socket. This Kies Socket is magnetic which makes changing the plugs a breeze.

Step 12
Carefully hand thread the new plugs to avoid cross-threading. DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF LUBRICATION ON THE THREADS.

Step 13
Torque the new spark plugs to 23NM.

Step 15
Re-install the ignition coil and plug in the harness. The tightening spec on the E8 bolt is 8NM.

Follow these steps for all six spark plugs. Before re-assembling everything, open the garage and start the car to ensure there are no misfires.

INSTALLATION VIDEO

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I will earn a commission.

 

How to Replace Your BMW F30 Battery

BMW F30 BATTERY SPECS (as of August 2022)
Size: Group 49
Type: AGM
Amp Hours: 92ah
Cold Cranking Amps: 850CCA
BMW Part #: 61 21 5 A40 

TOOLS REQUIRED
-10mm socket
-13mm socket
-socket extension
-Carly adapter (or any software that can register a BMW battery)

For the past month, my car has been struggling to start up. I took it to Auto Zone to have the battery tested and they confirmed that it needed to be replaced. We go inside and their computer system shows a handful of batteries that they recommend for my car. 

But when we walked over to the shelf, the specifications printed on the top of the battery didn’t match the battery in my car, so you have to be careful. The stock battery in my F30 was 90 amp hours, but the highest rated one they sold was only 80 amp hours.

I thanked them for the help, but decided to look online instead. A search of the battery part number didn’t return any results, and a deep dive on the forums revealed that the battery in my car had been discontinued. I spent over an hour online trying to find something with similar specs and there were hardly any options, at least that could be shipped to me.

I called my closest dealer and it turned out that a Genuine BMW battery was only $276, which isn’t much more than the batteries at Auto Zone. So save yourself the time and headache and buy it from the dealership. Buying a generic isn’t a huge savings and you’ll likely be settling for lesser specs.

INSTALLATION
Like most BMW’s the F30’s battery is located in the trunk on the right hand side.

Remove two 10mm screws to remove the retaining bracket.

Loosen the 10mm nut to remove the negative battery cable from the terminal.

Loosen the 10mm nut on the positive battery cable and move it aside.

Detach the vent hose from the positive side of the battery.

There’s a 10mm screw at the base of the battery on the negative side. You may need a long extension to reach it. 

I put some masking tape on the negative battery cable to get it out of the way during removal and re-installation.

The battery is heavy, 53 pounds (24kg) to be exact. And it’s in an awkward place where you don’t have a lot of leverage. If you have neck or back problems, you might want to think twice about this install. 

Put this new battery in, in the same orientation. The negative terminal should be closest to the rear of the car.

Secure the 10mm screw at the base of the battery and reinstall the retaining bracket. Install the negative, then the positive cables. The torque spec is 10 newton meters on each, but I won’t tell anyone if you tighten them up by hand. Install the vent hose which allows gasses from the battery to escape outside the vehicle. 

REGISTRATION 
With the battery installed, we need to register it to the car. BMW’s from the mid 2000’s onward use an algorithm to keep track of the battery’s age, and the car adjusts how much the battery charges over time. Whenever you install a new battery, you must register it to the car which resets the battery charging statistics. Failure to do so will result in overcharging of your new battery.

There are a handful of tools that will allow you to do this at home. I’m using Carly, but BimmerLink will work too.

Because the Genuine BMW battery is nearly the same specs as the one I’m replacing, we don’t need to do any additional coding. However, if you happen to buy one that its 80amp hours instead of 90, you’ll need to code that first before registering. 

Just a note, the original battery was 90 amp hours and the new battery  is 92. According to the parts guy at the dealership, it’s close enough that I don’t need to change anything. 

Once you’ve connected your car to the Carly app you’re ready to register it. Tap “Features” in the lower right corner, then choose “Battery Reset” from the menu. Choose the option that says “Register Same Battery.” Carly will read your current battery info, then give you the option to register your new battery. The whole process takes about a minute.

BATTERY MAINTENANCE 

If you don’t drive your BMW everyday, its crucial to use a smart charger like this CTEK MXS 5.0 to keep the battery topped off when you aren’t driving. I didn’t have one the first year I owned this car, and I think letting the battery discharge that first winter caused irreversible damage. 

So whether you work from home, or maybe you don’t drive your BMW at all in the winter, you need to make sure you are maintaining your battery in order to get the maximum life out of it. These modern BMW’s are very power hungry, even when they’re just sitting.

INSTALLATION VIDEO

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through my custom link, I will earn a commission.

 

How to Change Your Oil | BMW 340i, or Any B58 Powered Car

Regular oil changes are the most crucial part of your car’s maintenance routine. By learning how to do them yourself, you’ll save a ton of money compared to going to the dealership. In this DIY, I’ll show you how to perform an oil change on any B58 powered vehicle, be it a BMW 340i or Toyota Supra.

Disclaimer - Work at your own risk. While oil changes are fundamentally simple, mistakes can cause permanent damage to your engine. Always work within your skill level.

Oil Viscosity 0W-20, 0W-30 (alternatively 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-40 and 5W-40 can be used)

When it comes to choosing the right oil viscosity, I go with BMW’s recommendation of 0W-20. After all, it’s what’s printed under the hood. When you go on forums trying to research oil, you’ll often come away more confused than when you started. You’ll read post after post about why one viscosity is better than another, followed up with a completely contradictory opinion. Even though 0W-20 is a rather thin oil, it’s the viscosity selected by BMW engineers to lubricate within the tight mechanical tolerances of the B58, and if that’s what they say to use, I’ll trust them.

Supplies*
Requires 6.5 liters of oil. You’ll need to purchase one 5L and two 1L bottles.
0W-20 oil 5 liter bottle (x1) https://geni.us/qU7XQWW
0W-20 oil 1 liter bottle (x2) https://geni.us/KNR3
Oil Filter https://geni.us/ioE9

Tools you will need*
Low profile floor jack https://amzn.to/3HM7EIN
Jack stands https://amzn.to/3HIBRZj
Jack stand pads https://amzn.to/3y9u3N5
Torque Wrench https://amzn.to/39JDmKj
Oil filter wrench https://amzn.to/3n7LVBJ
Sockets https://amzn.to/3zWBkAZ
Drain pan https://amzn.to/3b9VjSs
Funnel https://amzn.to/3y9gUnc
Pick tools https://amzn.to/3OeLC41

*affiliate links

Step 1 Warm Up Engine

Before performing an oil change, it’s important to warm up the engine to operating temperature, especially in cold weather. This will ensure that the old oil drains quickly and thoroughly.

Step 2 Jack Up Your Car

Step 3 Remove Acoustic Engine Cover

Step 4 Remove Oil Fill Cap

Step 5 Drain Old Oil

On the B58, the drain plug is on the bottom of the car in between the front wheels. It’s underneath a small door in the fabric liner under the car. Use a 17mm socket to remove the plug, and have your drain pan ready to catch the oil.

Step 6 Remove Oil Filter

The B58’s oil filter is on the intake side of the engine and is in a tight spot compared to other BMW inline 6’s. You’ll need a socket wrench with a swivel extension, with your oil filter socket on the end of it. Cover the surrounding area with shop rags, as oil will drip out of the oil filter upon removal.

Step 7 Install New Oil Filter

Before replacing the filter, take note of how it’s oriented in the filter cap as well as the placement of the rubber O rings. Your new oil filter includes a new O ring for the cap and a new crush washer for the drain plug. Lubricate all of the rubber O rings with fresh oil and install the filter into the cap. You will hear an audible click when it’s fully seated. Install the filter in the engine and use a torque wrench to torque it to 25nm.

Step 9 Re-Install Drain Plug

Replace the crush washer and reinstall the drain plug. Use a torque wrench to torque the 17mm plug to 25nm.

Step 10 Fill the Engine with Oil

The B58 requires 6.5 liters of oil. Measure carefully because there is no dipstick, and you will need to get the car to operating temperature again before you can take an electronic measurement. 

Step 11 Check the Oil Level

The B58, like other modern BMW engines does not have an oil dipstick. Instead, you must use the car’s electronic measuring system. With your car on a level surface and the engine running (and at operating temperature) check the oil level. In your iDrive menu go to Settings > Vehicle Info > Oil Level and press “OK.” It takes about 2 minutes to get a reading. Your engine RPM’s will increase while it’s measuring. If the oil level is okay, then you’re done! Note that BMW’s oil level sensor can detect if the level is too low, but not if it’s over-filled. That’s why it is CRITICAL to measure carefully as you are filling the engine.

Applications

• 2015–2019 F30/F31/F34 340i

• 2016–2019 F32/F33/F36 440i

• 2016–2019 G11/G12 740i/Li

• 2016–2019 F20/F21 M140i

• 2016–2021 F22/F23 M240i

• 2017–2019 G30/G31 540i

• 2017–2019 G32 640i

• 2016-2019 F30/F31/F34 340i

• 2016-2019 F32/F33/F36 440i

• 2017–2019 G01 X3 M40i

• 2018–2019 G02 X4 M40i

• 2018-present G05 X5 xDrive40i/sDrive40i

• 2018-present G07 X7 xDrive40i

• 2018-present G29 Z4 M40i

• 2020-present G30/G31 540i

• 2020–present G32 640i

• 2020-present G06 X6 xDrive40i

• 2020-present G11/G12 740i

• 2019-present G14/G15/G16 840i

• 2020 Toyota Supra

• 2018-present G29 Z4 M40i

• 2019-present G20 M340i

• 2019-present G21 M340i

• 2020-present G01 X3 M40i

• 2019-present G02 X4 M40i

• 2020–present G22 M440i

• 2021-present Toyota Supra

• 2021-present G42 M240i